A little about fishing. If you think that they fish for omul in the same way as for sor (lake) fish such as perch and sorozhka, then you are sorely mistaken... When a man sits by the hole, drinking beer twenty meters from the shore and, shaking the fishing line, languidly talking to neighbor, periodically pulls out small fish with red fins from the hole... this, I tell you, is not a drive at all. And the drive is fishing for omul.
Omul is a noble fish and will not go to just anyone.
Omul is a schooling fish. The school may pass under you, or it may pass about five hundred meters away, and its “ear” will not point in your direction. Omul, as you know, is a noble and finicky fish, no matter how it will not be caught. Professional fishermen call ice fishing for omul in short – drill fishing.
Bormash, an amphipod crustacean, is the main omulin food and the main fishing bait and bait. This arthropod, similar to a cockroach and a small shrimp at the same time, is considered a noble orderly of Lake Baikal, as it destroys dead organisms.
For one fishing trip, a 0.5-1 liter jar of bait is enough. Before going directly to fishing, purchased or caught crustaceans are poured into felt boots. Felt boots are needed for drill comfort and warmth. After all, for fishing you need live bait, but in a jar the crustacean will freeze and die.
The second stage of preparation is the most secret - fishing rods. Every angler has a whole set of fishing rods for winter fishing. They differ from each other only in the color and quality of the “fly” - artificial bait. For omul, the “fly” should resemble a bormysh, its main food. Bait is most often made from thick thread (for example, yarn). Moreover, fishermen try to adhere to fashionable trends. For example, a couple of decades ago, a “fly” made from English cloth (material for overcoats from the time of World War I) was considered especially chic. The owner of a rag the color of swamp mud became the object of envious glances.
Currently, a whole “fly industry” has been established. Craftsmen make and sell simply amazing products! To the experienced eye of a fisherman, it is a real work of art, incomparable in beauty. But each fish has its own beauty. And what she sees with her fish eyes is almost impossible to predict. After all, how can we explain the fact that in the early morning, at dawn, the omul bites exclusively on the zebra? "Zebra" is a "fly" made from black and white plastic rings attached to a hook. From a human point of view, this striped structure is least like a bormysh, but the omul (at dawn!) thinks differently. But closer to noon, brown “flies” are already used, but they are not always attractive to this picky fish.
Often the color of the “fly” depends on the weather conditions (every self-respecting fisherman should be able to navigate this well). This is, perhaps, the whole main secret of fishing.
How does drill fishing happen?
Let's move on to the process of omul production itself. First you need to drill a hole. Considering that the ice can be up to 120 cm thick, this is hard physical work. On average, this activity takes 5 minutes. It takes up to 10 minutes to fully prepare the hole - widening it with a crowbar and scooping out the ice with a slotted spoon.
The fishing process itself takes place with the participation of the crustaceans already mentioned more than once. A small (non-through) depression is pecked next to the hole, which is connected to the hole by a channel. The drill caught the day before is sent into this depression filled with water, which independently moves through the channel into the hole and attracts the omul with its presence. At this moment, a fisherman is already waiting for the fish, dangling fake food near its nose. As soon as the omul swallows the bait, you need to be able to hook it and do it quickly. The omul can easily break off as the ice fishing hook is barbless. That is why the main position for catching winter omul is standing. In this position it is more convenient to jerk the fish. Doing this while sitting is more difficult.
However, some aces, more often than not, as entertainment at the end of fishing, catch fish while lying down. This method is called "close-up". The fisherman lies down on the ice and begins to peer into the depths of the lake. After a few minutes, when the eyes get used to the darkness, it becomes clear what is happening deep in the water. According to the fishermen, the spectacle is unforgettable. From a distance, the omul looks like small sharks with an open mouth. These monsters run around in search of food. And out of nowhere, a large gaping mouth grabs a “fly” hanging in the water. Here the fisherman, captivated by the spectacle, needs to be able to not get confused and hook the fish in time...
And although not all fishermen are blessed with a successful bite, there are still moments in omul fishing when almost everyone catches fish. This is the moment of passage of a flock or school. It is interesting to observe this phenomenon from the outside. Several dozen fishermen suddenly begin to actively wave their arms, imitating a windmill. And all they do is wrap a multi-meter fishing line around their hands. You can’t stop – the omul may break loose. Yes, in general, fishermen have no time to think about fatigue. That's what they're going for.
February and March are a traditional period when many Russians, tired of the endless frost, go to Asian countries for sun and warmth. So this year I was finally ready for a similar trip. I made a route, saved up the required amount, and found travel companions. The only thing that was not ready was the international passport, which was promised to be done by mid-March.
Meanwhile, it was February 17th. Defender of the Fatherland Day was approaching and the weekend, which turned out to be longer than usual this year. And I really wanted to take this opportunity and spend it on travel. The choice, however, was limited only to Russia. And now I understand that it was even for the better! I then remembered how a couple of years ago, at one of the photo exhibitions, I first learned what winter Baikal was like. His fantastic landscapes inspired me so much that I promised myself to see this magnificence in person someday.
When, on the same day, I came across an announcement about the upcoming tour to Lake Baikal, I realized that the time had come! True, very quickly and somehow suddenly. My brain resisted for a long time, analyzing the trip budget. “Yes, for this amount you can fly to Thailand for 2 weeks! And you choose a 5-day tour, and even in the cold. It’s not enough for you in Moscow, or what?” However, such a response was felt in my soul! My intuition told me that I would still have time to fly to Asia. And in the case of Baikal, you need to seize the moment! In addition, February is the most favorable time to travel there in winter.
And now on the evening of February 21st I was sitting on the plane, filled with adventurism and the spirit of a pioneer. I couldn’t shake the feeling that something adventurous and even somewhat expeditionary awaited me ahead. After all, Baikal, especially in winter, has not yet become a popular tourist resort. And this fact could not but rejoice!
Upon arrival in Irkutsk, we met with the guide and within half an hour we boarded a transfer to our destination. I couldn’t believe that in 5 hours the real Baikal would open before me - the cleanest and deepest lake in the world, which we were told about back in elementary school. Moreover, I will spend 5 days in its very heart - on the famous Olkhon Island! Intoxicated by these thoughts and having not slept for a day, I fell into a sweet sleep straight to our guest house.
The place where we lived turned out to be more than worthy! The rooms are very cozy and warm, there is a small fireplace in the living room. It also has its own bathhouse and dining room, where they cook wonderfully!
And the house itself was located near a beautiful pine grove.
This is the view from our veranda!
On the first day, I enthusiastically set out to explore the island.
It was something incredible! What I managed to see and learn over all 5 days is difficult to fit into one article. So many discoveries, emotions and new impressions! It seems that I gave a piece of my soul to this wonderful place...
1. Hummocks
The instability of the physical composition of the lake and the temperature of the ice cover lead to the formation of hummocks - ice debris rising above the frozen surface.
The pronounced turquoise tint of hummocks is formed in approximately the same way as the blue color of reservoirs. Sun rays passing through ice are refracted and scattered. Long red rays are absorbed more, and short blue rays are better scattered, visually coloring clear water in a stunning turquoise color.
The height of hummocks is usually small - up to 1-1.5 m. But at the end of winter, when powerful ice movement occurs, they can be taller than human height!
In some places there were not just ice fragments, but real blue mountains.
I cannot express in words how much these landscapes excite my imagination... You are mentally transported somewhere to the Ice Age or to the North Pole!
It’s as if a chronicle is depicted here on ice parchment
And here you can see ice floes in the form of sunken ships, whose sails rise above the snow cover...
2. Music
Yes, yes, winter Baikal has its own music! And we are not talking about local folklore or folk instruments at all.
This sound cannot be compared with anything... It was incredible, grandiose and scary at the same time!
The sound when such a huge lake breaks is like thunder. My guide explained that winter Baikal only seems quiet and asleep until spring... In fact, under the ice the water continues to move, and how! It is these underwater currents that create hummocks and cracks that cover almost the entire surface of the lake. By the way, it is thanks to cracks that all living creatures living under water receive oxygen.
When I heard these sounds for the first time, it seemed to me as if a car was driving somewhere in the distance with music on. It really does sound like a muffled beat! But when the sound gradually grew louder, and no car appeared, it became uneasy. My rich imagination was already picturing the approaching Loch Ness monster, which was about to break through the ice right under my feet!
And here and there, by the way, there were actually cracks where someone could easily have plunged into. Probably, only now am I beginning to realize where I was in the first place... 😉
3. Snow and ice patterns
Since real cracks start to appear after April, in February-March you can calmly and without any fear enjoy the unique patterns that cover the lake. You can spend hours looking at this endless canvas, where not a single stroke, not a single crack, not a single pattern will be repeated! And when you realize that all this was created by nature, you are once again convinced that people still have time to learn and learn from it.
Thanks to the combination of ice and snow, the outlines of faces or animals could be seen here and there. This is how the phrase suggests itself: “There are traces of unseen animals on unknown paths...”
In some places the snow lay like snow-white, untouched carpets, and the ice nearby was clean, without cracks. This created a truly dizzying effect - as if you were walking on clouds rather than on ice!
Like a path between the clouds 😉
4. Sokui and ice grottoes
Splashes on the shores and rocks that form when the lake freezes at the very beginning of winter are called sokui. Just like patterns on ice, sokui come in a wide variety of weird shapes!
Sometimes it looked like beautifully frozen waterfalls...
Behind the splashes there are many caves and grottoes that are inaccessible in summer due to the higher water level. Despite the fact that I have been in real and quite large caves more than once, the Baikal grottoes really impressed me. It’s like an ancient sacrament that you’re afraid to disturb with unnecessary movement or sound. And it’s hard to believe that in the summer all this conceals and disappears.
The ceilings of the grottoes are dotted with many icicles resembling stalactites.
5. Bubbles frozen in ice.
It was always interesting to imagine what a bubble frozen in ice would look like. And is this even possible in principle? It turns out that it’s still possible!
Methane gas released by algae rises to the surface from the bottom of Lake Baikal. When the lake becomes covered with ice, the bubbles of this gas also freeze. And since they freeze at different depths, it creates an amazing visual effect!
6. Ice transparency
It’s not for nothing that Baikal is still officially recognized as the cleanest lake in the world. Its waters are rich in oxygen and so clear that you can read a newspaper or watch a movie through the ice.
Should you add pieces of ice to tea, or is it just that way 😉
It is believed that Baikal owes its crystal clear water to a microscopic crustacean - the Baikal epishura, which filters the water by passing it through itself.
7. A means of transportation and active recreation.
Winter tourists going to the island. Olkhon, we were much luckier than in summer.
After all, there is no need to wait for the ferry, which will take a long time to ferry you from one shore to the other. Thanks to the ice, enormous freedom of movement opens up and the opportunity to visit even the most inaccessible corners of Lake Baikal. However, this opportunity should be used only in February and March, when the ice is already quite strong and has not yet begun to melt.
Ice is also a great place for active recreation. Here everyone is having fun as best they can.
And one day our group had lunch right in the middle of the lake. Very unusual sensations, I tell you! It’s as if we are participants in a long, long road on which there are no signs of civilization. When our driver cooked fish soup online in a pot, it seemed to me the most delicious fish soup in my life!
But the most interesting entertainment that I saw was making a fire right on the ice. Someone clearly lacked adrenaline :)
Summing up, I would like to say that everyone should visit Baikal at least once. And exactly in winter!
You will experience a range of sensations that you will not get anywhere else.
But that's not all! It is also worth mentioning a few words about the Olkhon, in particular – about the village Khuzhir, which is also rich in interesting features and mysteries.
During an introductory walk around the village, my guide stopped near one house and pointed to a small hole in the fence.
– What do you think it is?
My assumptions that this is a window for domestic cats, or that it is used instead of a peephole or as an opening for the transmission of something, have failed. Looking around, I realized that there is such a hole in the fence in almost every house. What is so important that all local residents might need? Moreover, this window opens from the outside.
My guide laughed and said that such a question was even in the program “What? Where? When?" It’s a paradox, but the residents of Khuzhir, which is located on the shores of Lake Baikal, receive drinking water in special water carriers. When residents are not at home, utility workers open the window in the gate, extend a hose and pour water into a barrel, which is always there at the ready. I never expected to hear this! Then they told me that even electricity was installed here only in 2005.
Another thing that surprised me while walking was that many of the houses still had Christmas decorations hanging on them! I already wanted to attribute this to the characteristics of the local pace of life... But then my eyes were opened to the fact that the Buryats, who make up a significant part of the population of Olkhon, celebrate the New Year on the night of February 26-27.
It’s a pity that on the evening of the 26th I already had a return transfer to Irkutsk. It would be interesting to look at local traditions and how they celebrate this important holiday!
I also remember the atmosphere on the territory of the abandoned Malomorsk fish factory. Once upon a time it was the real pride and beauty of Khuzhir and the Irkutsk region. Several workshops functioned here: fish production, processing, net shop, timber shop, mechanical shop, etc.
But this is the picture that opens on the pier near the fish factory... Somewhat gloomy, but beautiful and even attractive.
Graffiti artists did a very good job on some of the ships, turning them into masterpieces of sorts. I even had a question: why aren’t operational ships painted like this?)
This place of accumulation of old ships can even be called a kind of local museum. Each ship seemed to have its own soul...
I couldn’t help but notice the local temple, which rose beautifully on a hill not far from the entrance to the village.
It was quite unusual to see him here. Personally, I have always associated Baikal and Olkhon with shamanism or Buddhism. But even more surprising was the story of the construction of this temple, which I later read on the Internet. I quote from the source:
“The servant of God Natalya came to me,” says the dean of the Verkholenskoye deanery, Fr. Vyacheslapav Pushkarev. “Grieving for her deceased husband, she spoke about one decisive event in her life: half asleep, the Mother of God appeared to her and told her to sell an apartment in a prestigious area of Irkutsk, on Gagarin Boulevard, and buy one on Fr. Olkhon house, and with the remaining money she built a temple there. In doubt, she went to Fr. Kalinnik, who did not see any charm in her dream, but sent her to me as the dean of this area. We decided to try it. If it is from God, then it will work, but if not, then it will stop. The proceeds from the sale of the apartment were not enough. Therefore, the temple was built bit by bit by the whole world over several years.” This idea evoked a great response from European tourists, who left considerable donations for the construction of the temple.
Now this is the Temple of the Sovereign Icon of the Mother of God. The doors there are open, there are no employees, you can take candles and pay as much as you want.
Thus, Olkhon is a place where paganism and Christianity coexist peacefully.
By the way, the hill on which the temple stands was simply created to watch sunsets from it and reflect on the eternal...
I wish everyone who goes to Lake Baikal in winter to experience as many vivid emotions and sensations!
The waters of Baikal are annually bound by a continuous ice cover. In this regard, Baikal is an exception among the large lakes of the globe. Even Lake Ladoga, which lies much further north, is completely covered with ice only in severe winters.
The snow-covered plains of frozen Baikal stretch for many tens of kilometers. Along the northwestern coast they alternate with vast expanses of sparkling, smooth, transparent ice (Fig. 30), from which strong winds blow the snow clean away.
From ancient times to the present day, the ice expanses of Lake Baikal have been convenient means of communication, and not only of local importance. For 100-130 days a year, automobile and horse crossings are maintained across the surface of the now-formed Baikal. However, the Baikal ice roads, along with conveniences, bring many difficulties and even dangers. Hence the great interest in the Baikal ice, which has long been shown by people who, in practice, solved the problem of winter transport on the lake and carefully collected the information necessary for this. Old works and various archival materials testify to greater attention to the Baikal ice, which appeared already in the distant times of caravan routes.
Already in the 17th century. Caravans moved through winter Baikal, bringing “soft junk” (furs) to China, and from there Chinese silks, tea and other goods. The ice routes through Baikal were significantly revived by the beginning of the mining of gold, silver and lead in the Nerchinsk mines. In 1733, a permanent postal service was established between Moscow and Nerchinsk with a crossing across the lake.
In the middle of the 19th century. regular winter communication between Central Russia and the Far East was established. Then it was also carried out through Baikal. In those years, several thousand carts passed through the icy Baikal, transporting tens of thousands of pounds of various goods. In 1904, a section of the railway was laid across the ice of Lake Baikal. With the help of horse traction, 65 locomotives and more than two thousand carriages were transported along it. With the coming into operation of the Circum-Baikal Railway, ice crossings were sharply reduced.
The very first information that has reached us about the ice of Lake Baikal is given in the book of Nikolai Spafari, the Russian ambassador to China. Spafariy had an order from Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich to describe in detail the route to China. In 1675, on the way to Beijing, he passed Baikal, leaving his descendants with a curious description of the ice of the lake and the dangers associated with winter movement on Lake Baikal: “... and sometimes in winter Baikal begins to freeze around Kreshchenev days, and it stays until May for months around Nikolin days, and the ice lives in a thickness of a fathom or more, and for this reason they walk on it in the winter with sleighs and sledges, but it is really scary, so that the sea rests and is divided in two and cracks are made fathoms wide, three or more in width, and water does not spill into them on the ice, and soon it will come together again with great noise and thunder, and in that place it will be like an ice wave; and sometimes in winter, everywhere along Lake Baikal there lives under the ice a great noise and thunder, as if from cannons (a great fear does not exist), especially between the island of Olkhon and between the Holy Nose, where the abyss is great.”
During the 18th and first half of the 19th centuries. many travelers and researchers of Siberia provide individual comments, and sometimes long descriptions of the Baikal ice. However, the beginning of a systematic study of the ice regime of Lake Baikal was made only in 1869-1876 by Dybovsky and Godlevsky.
Nowadays, the study of the ice of Lake Baikal has not lost any of its importance; on the contrary, the scope of work in this area has expanded significantly. Research into the ice regime of Lake Baikal has become more in-depth. Scientists comprehensively study the formation of ice cover, its destruction and melting, its structure, strength, ability to conduct heat and transmit sunlight, and much, much more. Researchers from the Baikal Limnological Station of the USSR Academy of Sciences under the leadership of G. Yu. Vereshchagin managed to achieve great success in this matter. In recent years, extensive work in the field of studying the ice of Lake Baikal has been carried out by the Limnological Institute of the Siberian Branch of the USSR Academy of Sciences. At the same time, our knowledge of the movements and modifications of the Baikal ice cover was significantly expanded by observations from an airplane and aerial photography.
Baikal ice takes very diverse forms. Some of them are formed during the freezing of the lake, others - throughout the winter. Various types of ice have long been well known and are designated by unique local names.
In October, when frost sets in, “splashes” appear on the rocks along the shores of Lake Baikal, often of bizarre shapes, formed by the surf. At the same time, in the north of Baikal, stripes of ice are already appearing along the berets - take care. In Southern Baikal, reserves appear only in November. Here, their formation is prevented by deep warm water, rising to the surface to replace cold layers driven away by northwestern winds. Under the south-eastern coast, where the surf is especially strong in autumn, the edges of the banks become very thick, often reaching 5-6 m. They take the form of shafts, according to the local “juice of ev”. Sokui are formed mainly from loose grainy intra-water (bottom) ice thrown to the surface by waves. Bottom ice crystallizes on Lake Baikal in small quantities: the supercooling of water necessary for its formation does not always occur. This ice in some places contributes to the formation of opaque ice.
Strong winds and waves break the wide banks. The resulting large and small fragments of ice - locally called “osenets” - are transported by wind and currents over long distances. The amount of debris ice gradually increases. As frost intensifies, the debris freezes together, forming ice fields. In the open spaces of the lake on frosty, windless and cloudless nights, young transparent ice quickly forms.
However, the autumn ice drift on Lake Baikal does not end there. Ice fields and young ice are repeatedly broken up and re-formed in November, December and early January. Waves and wind create piles of ice floes in certain parts of the lake - hummocks. In some places, ice floes are being pushed in, which leads to the formation of multi-layered ice. Thus, when complete freezing occurs, the ice cover of Lake Baikal is no longer uniform: smooth ice 5-20 cm alternates with ice thickened with slips up to 40-65 cm, and also with hummocky ice.
Baikal is never covered with continuous ice cover along its entire length. Freeze-up occurs in different areas of the lake at very different times, which, moreover, do not remain constant in individual years. Already in October, shallow water debris and small bays freeze completely. Freezing occurs along different coasts from mid-December to early January. In the first half of January, the open parts of the lake freeze and, last of all, the deepest area opposite Olkhon Island (Fig. 31). In some years, ice-free areas remain throughout January, and in 1899 the final freeze-up in the Goloustnoye area occurred only on February 10. During the winter, a very small space in front of the source of the Angara remains unfrozen. The formation of ice here is prevented by the rise of warmer deep waters to the surface.
During winter, the thickness of the lake's ice cover continuously increases. Particularly thick - up to 150-250 cm- ice reaches small, early frozen bays. Along the northwestern coast, in the Small Sea and other places, snow-free, crystal-clear ice very quickly forms. However, at the end of February - beginning of March, its freezing stops. In open Baikal, the rate of freezing and the thickness of ice largely depend on the distribution of snow on the ice cover.
Snow cover greatly slows ice growth, which continues until early April. The fact is that snow impedes heat transfer through the ice cover. In the absence of snow, in the first half of winter, the surface layers of water quickly cool, giving up their heat reserves through ice, which quickly grows. In the second half of winter, the influx of solar heat penetrating through transparent ice increases, the water heats up and freezing stops. Snow cover, on the one hand, delays the heat transfer of subglacial water, and on the other hand, reflecting up to 50-70% of solar energy, prevents the heating of water, which is especially noticeable in the second half of winter.
The thickness of single-layer smooth ice by the end of winter ranges from 70 to 113 cm, but in some cases reaches 130 cm and more. Multi-layer ice formed as a result of slips can be significantly thicker.
Throughout the winter, the continuous ice cover does not remain motionless and unchanged. It undergoes, although small, but very noticeable horizontal and vertical displacements. As a result, deformations and fractures of the ice are formed, narrow “dry” cracks and through wide cracks with high piles of ice floes along the edges appear.
The main reason for horizontal displacements of the ice cover is the compression and expansion of ice when its temperature changes. The scale of these movements can be judged by the following figures. It turns out that a decrease in the temperature of the Baikal ice cover by 3° would lead to compression and a decrease in its length along the lake by 120 m. But the configuration and ruggedness of its shores, with which the ice cover is welded, lead to the appearance of a whole network of through cracks, dividing the continuous ice cover into separate ice fields, reaching 30 km in diameter. The width of the cracks themselves ranges from several tens of centimeters to several meters. The location of these cracks does not change from year to year.
Such through cracks on Lake Baikal have long been called “stanova cracks”.
During warming, the ice expands, pressure and accumulation of ice blocks appear along the cracks. “Hummocks” are formed, stretching for many kilometers. The formation of cracks and hummocks is accompanied by a strong noise, reminiscent of cannon fire or thunderclaps.
Stanovye hummocks and tens of square kilometers of hummocky ice create difficult conditions for the operation of winter transport on Lake Baikal. Crevices filled with thin young ice are especially dangerous.
The severe Siberian frosts give the ice cover of Lake Baikal solidity, significant thickness and strength.
Vertical movements of the ice cover are the result of changes in the position of the lake level, which are caused by the action of wind, sharp fluctuations in atmospheric pressure or other reasons. The direct effect of wind on ice movement becomes noticeable only in the spring, just before the lake opens up.
During the winter, polynyas form in the ice cover of Lake Baikal. At first they are small - several meters in size, but gradually their sizes increase. These polynyas or, as they are called, “steam holes”, “keys”, are a consequence of the melting of the ice from below. This happens where gases released from the bottom of the lake carry warm deep waters to the lower surface of the ice.
Steaming can also occur in places where hot springs come out, common along the shores of Lake Baikal, but their magnitude is insignificant. The areas of occurrence of steam deposits, formed as a result of the rise of deep warm waters to the surface, remain unchanged from year to year. This confirms the existence of permanent subglacial currents in Baikal. The largest steam pits are found near Cape Kadilny, along the northern shore of South Baikal and in some other parts of the lake.
The internal destruction of Baikal ice begins long before the ice drift. The sun's rays through transparent ice heat the subglacial layer of water. The ice begins to melt from below, crumble and, as they say, break apart - divide into columns and needles. The number of steam holes increases, they expand, gradually turning into extensive polynyas. The cracks widen, large ice fields are released and begin to move under the influence of the wind. Pressures and thrusts of ice begin, posing a serious danger to coastal structures: piers, breakwaters, piers, etc. In some places, masses of ice are forced onto the shores (Fig. 32, 33).
This picture is observed from year to year already in mid-April along the entire northern shore of Southern Baikal in the area: village. Listvenichnoe - Peschanaya Bay. There is no snow cover here throughout the winter. On the opposite bank, in the Posolsk-Tankhoy region, where snow persists in winter, ice destruction begins two weeks later, and in Northern Baikal - only in the second half of May.
The wind breaks open the melted ice that has lost its strength. In the resulting vast expanses of free water, it spreads waves, accelerating the destruction of the ice cover. Ice breaking usually begins in the area of the village of Listvenichnoye - Peschanaya Bay in late April. In the same area - against the Bolshoy and Maly Kadilny capes - particularly early ice drift is observed. This feature was noted back in 1788 by the famous explorer of Siberia, Academician Pallas. Breaking of the ice cover in the north of Lake Baikal occurs only at the end of May.
Spring ice drift on Lake Baikal lasts an average of 12-19 days, along the southeastern coast - 25-30 days, and to the west of the river's source. Hangars end in 4-10 days. The liberation of certain areas of Lake Baikal from ice is taking a long time. If in the south the lake clears in the first half of May, then at its northern end individual ice floes can still be found in early July, and in the area of Sosnovaya Bay in mid-July (Fig. 34).
Late freezing and late opening, unlike other lakes of temperate sprat, are a manifestation of the same feature of Baikal: its enormous temperature inertia. Seasonal changes in the temperature of Baikal waters, as a result of their enormous volume and high heat capacity, proceed very slowly. In spring and summer, Baikal waters accumulate huge reserves of heat; a lot of time is spent on its release, cooling of the upper layers and subsequent freezing, even in the event of severe frosts. Similarly, in spring, a lot of solar heat is required in order for the temperature in a significant thickness of the upper layers of water to increase and intensive melting of ice from its lower surface to begin.
The opposite is observed in Baikal litters. With a vast surface and a depth of only 3-5 m Sora waters very quickly give up their small reserves of heat and freeze already in October. In the spring, the water in the litters quickly warms up, and they are freed from ice captivity much earlier than open Baikal.
He talks about his trip to Baikal.
I visited the icy kingdom of Lake Baikal before it became a mandatory program for March for photographers shooting in Russia. It was quite a long time ago, I really want to go again and shoot a little differently. Looking back, you see a lot of potential for a more interesting shot. But the past cannot be changed, we all learn something and become better.
Baikal, especially in winter, is difficult to describe in words. This is a completely different world, a world of ice and wind. The ice stretches to the horizon and is so transparent that you are afraid to step on it. When, having overcome the hummocks, you get to the rocky outcrops and enter the ice grottoes, making your way among the ice stalactites, where multi-meter ice splashes are frozen, bristling with a fan of ice needles, you cannot remain indifferent to all this. Under your feet are the blackening depths of space, apparent chaos in which order is born. And in the evening, when the temperature begins to change, the lighting is dimmed and a symphony of ice begins. If you are close to the ice crack at this moment, you can see how the ice floes are being squeezed out from under the ice. All this is accompanied by a continuous hum, like the sounds of an earthquake. Winter Baikal will make an indelible impression on any connoisseur of the beautiful or unusual.
Baikal is a beautiful and interesting place on our vast territory. The lake is of tectonic origin, located in a basin and surrounded on all sides by mountain ranges and hills. The deepest lake on the planet, 19% of the world's fresh water reserves. Due to weak mineralization, the water and ice are so transparent that visibility can reach up to 40 meters. 336 rivers and streams flow into Baikal (and these are only permanent ones), and one flows out - the Angara. It’s an unusual experience when visiting such places, when the dry figures of geography and history come to life before your eyes.
In March, a strong and stable ice cover is established on Lake Baikal, when you can drive a car on the ice (but you must always be attentive and careful), and the temperature already becomes more comfortable for a long stay in the air.
View of the snow-covered steppe expanses of Olkhon.
In the southern part of the island there is a steppe, with sparsely standing solitary trees. After a frosty night, they were all covered with sparkling frost.
Olkhon has a variety of landscapes: there are beaches with dunes, dense forests with rare larches, spruce forests, rocks, and swamps.
View of the hummocks that formed during ice movements.
The frozen waters of Lake Baikal are also an ice skating rink for lovers of winter sports. But often the ice is so hard that even sharpened skates cannot cut it.
One of the symbols of Baikal and Olkhon Island is Shamanka Rock.
Hummocks, cracks, ice floes, and snowdrifts give the lake endless variations of pattern combinations.
Despite the ice thickness of several meters, which can support the weight of the car, fishermen are drilling holes to catch omul, a Baikal endemic.
In the depths of the frozen lake you can find traces of strange life forms.
The colors of the ice are amazingly diverse; you always want to take a closer look at all the details and features.
Fragments of ice floes create bizarre graphics of shapes and lines.
One of the beautiful classic views of the island is the Shamanka rock.
In addition to the ice of the frozen lake itself, the splashes on the coastal rocks are also very interesting. They are formed as a result of the freezing of water thrown out by waves onto a cold surface when the ground is already frozen and the water is not captured by an ice crust.
In the pre-dawn twilight, the ice reflects the colors of dawn, only the black strokes of cracks create the effect of a broken mirror.
Even in winter, frozen in ice, Baikal breathes. You can hear deep-seated explosions, creaking cracks, and the crackle of breaking ice. If you listen closely, this is a full-fledged melody performed on unusual instruments. The ice tension is so high that when the temperature changes, with every step, cracks branch out from under your feet like lightning. The ice of Lake Baikal is so similar to the earth’s crust that seismologists use explosions to simulate and study earthquakes.
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Ice hummocks are very interesting, where when cracks are squeezed, ice fragments are squeezed onto the surface. Often, hummocks form entire fields where a cold crack usually runs - a temperature seam in the ice cover that does not freeze due to compression and expansion of ice and can reach up to 4 meters in width, having a huge extent of 20-30 kilometers.
A lively illustration of the expression “Ice and Fire.”
Cracked ice looks completely different from above than when you stand on it. The twists of the cracks, the play of color, the dynamics of the lines are fascinating.
It is also interesting to consider the structure of the ice. They are very diverse. Here inclusions of air bubbles form a “molecular lattice”.
A shaman among broken ice that was squeezed out along the shore.
There are many small islands in the water area. Which can be reached by car in winter.
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Tour route: Irkutsk - Taltsy - Listvyanka - Bolshoye Goloustnoye - Buguldeika - Maloye More - o. Olkhon - Irkutsk
March is the ideal time to travel around Baikal: the weather becomes milder, the sun shines brighter, the day is very warm, and the winds subside. And the ice on the lake in March is the strongest. Baikal ice is a fairy tale, it is magic, it is amazing and amazingly beautiful in any weather with numerous shades of gray, blue, blue, azure...
This tour is for active and curious travelers, easy-going and ready for bright impressions!
An active holiday awaits you, an unforgettable acquaintance with the capital of Eastern Siberia - the city of Irkutsk, the “gateway to Baikal” - the village of Listvyanka, as well as the “heart of Baikal” - the island of Olkhon. You will see ancient Siberian estates, get acquainted with winter activities, take a steam bath in a real Russian bathhouse and enjoy a cozy and hospitable welcome.
Transport: Minibus, khivus (hovercraft).
Accommodation
1-, 2-, 3-seater
In Irkutsk - 4* hotel, standard room, amenities (toilet, shower) in the room.
In Listvyanka – 3* hotel, standard room, amenities (toilet, shower) in the room.
On the Small Sea there is a recreation center, amenities (toilet, shower) in the room.
Tour program
1st dayMeeting in Irkutsk at the airport - at the exit to the city, inside the airport building from 08.00 to 08.30; at the Irkutsk - Passazhirsky railway station - on the stairs at the exit to the city, inside the station building from 09.00 to 09.30. Plaque “Crystal ice of Baikal”. After the meeting, transfer for breakfast.
And here is the beginning of the journey into a winter fairy tale - transfer to the village of Listvyanka.
Along the way excursion to the open-air museum of wooden architecture “Taltsy”. In winter, the famous Russian roller coaster operates on the territory. Don't deny yourself the pleasure of riding a cowhide from a dizzying height.
A short drive to Listvyanka and then a meeting with gray Baikal, dressed in crystal transparent clothes, trimmed with snow-white fur of snow-capped ridges! Stop at the observation deck at the Shaman Stone.
Lunch at the restaurant and transfer to the hotel. Accommodation and rest before a busy program.
Meals: breakfast, lunch.
Cities: Irkutsk, Listvyanka
Attractions: Architectural and Ethnographic Museum "Taltsy", Shaman-stone
Reservoirs: Lake Baikal
2nd day
After breakfast - excursion to the Baikal Museum. The museum will introduce you to the history of the development of the lake and its natural features. We will meet the inhabitants of the deepest and cleanest body of water on the planet - the Baikal omul, amphipods and, of course, the seal - the Baikal seal!
After visiting the depths of Lake Baikal, you need to climb higher - ascent by chairlift to the Chersky stone. Lunch at the restaurant.
Dog Sledding Tour(one-by-one control), total route duration: 3 hours. Communication with friendly Baikal Huskies will give you a charge of positive emotions for a long time. Baikal Huskies are a mix of the Alaskan Husky, Norwegian Husky and Kamchatka Sled Dog.
Meals: breakfast, lunch.
Cities: Listvyanka
Attractions: Baikal Museum, Chersky Stone
Reservoirs: Lake Baikal
3rd day
Early breakfast. At 7.30 departure from the hotel.
Expedition – passage on a hovercraft (hovercraft) along the western shore of Lake Baikal: Listvyanka – Bolshiye Koty – Peschanka (stop, picnic on the ice of Lake Baikal) – Bolshoye Goloustnoye – Buguldeika – Sagan Zaba – Olkhon Gate Strait – Sakhyurta – tourist center “World of Baikal”.
A full-day trek with stops, overcoming hummocks, and a picnic on the ice.
Baikal ice is one of the main winter attractions of the lake. In spring you can appreciate its incredible transparency. It seems that there is not even half a meter of water underfoot, although the depth can reach 20 and even 40 meters. It’s fascinating to watch the underwater life - gobies scurry along the bottom between the stones, an amphipod rearranges its long legs, and an omul flashes by.
Ice ridges are incredibly bizarre formations during freeze-up. Huge blocks of crystal clear ice protrude above the surface. Visibility through it is no worse than through ordinary glass.
Accommodation at the camp site in fully equipped rooms with all amenities. Dinner.
Meals: breakfast, picnic lunch, dinner.
Cities: Listvyanka, Bolshoye Goloustnoye, Buguldeika
Attractions: Peschanaya Bay and walking pines, Sagan-Zaba cliff, Small Sea
4th day
Breakfast. ATV tour: hummocks and ice of Lake Baikal (camp site - Olkhon Gate lookout - Tutai - Zmeinka).
The ice on Lake Baikal is different every day. Its color and transparency are affected not only by sunlight, but also by air temperature. An experienced instructor will teach you how to operate an ATV and tell you amazing stories about winter Baikal.
Return, lunch at the base.
And before dinner, a hot bath will be offered - with tea infused with Siberian herbs.
Cities: Olkhonsky district
Attractions: Small Sea
5th day
Breakfast. Car excursion to Olkhon Island to Cape Burkhan.
Another feature of the ice on Lake Baikal is sokui. These are bizarre-shaped ice splashes that appear in late autumn during storms, when angry Baikal waves beat against the rocks and drops of water freeze on them in bizarre icicles. They may look like long ice plumes from icicles frozen together or like spirally twisted ice needles.
The goal of the trip will be Burkhan metro station, covered in legends and unusual stories. Cape Burkhan is the hallmark of Lake Baikal. It is located in the middle part of Olkhon Island, where the village of Khuzhir is located nearby - the largest and most populous village on the island. Here you will have the opportunity to walk around the site and admire the cape on one side, and the sandy Sarai beach stretching for 3 km on the other. After lunch in Khuzhir, there will be a return journey and the opportunity to visit Fr. Ogoy (in good ice conditions).
After sightseeing, you will return to the camp site, where a hearty dinner will await you.
Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner.
Cities: Olkhonsky district
Attractions: O. Olkhon, Cape Burkhan
6th day
Free day. Enjoy amazing silence. Listen to the whisper of the wind, the ghostly cry of seagulls, echoing from the rocks that absorbed this sound in the summer.
The deepest lake. Land of shamans. Clean energy.
For those interested: ice fishing (3,300 rubles per person, the price includes: bait, rental of gear, instructor services). We catch: perch, grayling.
Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner.
Cities: Olkhonsky district
Attractions: Small Sea
7th day
Breakfast. Transfer to Irkutsk(at the request of tourists, a car transfer can be replaced by a helicopter transfer, additional payment: 130,000 rubles (1-4 people)).
Arrival in Irkutsk, lunch. Sightseeing tour of the city.
The Siberian city of Irkutsk was founded in 1661 by serving Cossacks under the leadership of Yakov Pokhabov. Initially, it was a wooden fortress, a fort at the confluence of two rivers: the swift Angara and the sedate Irkut. The name of the city – Irkutsk – came from this river.
The excursion introduces you to the most interesting places of the city, architectural and historical monuments and events. Your attention will be presented to: the Eternal Flame, the Polish Church, the Spasskaya Church, the Cathedral of the Epiphany, the Square named after. Kirov, next to it once stood the Kazan Cathedral, the Linguistic University, the Znamensky Convent (there are the graves of the Decembrists on the territory), a monument to Admiral Kolchak, the place of his execution. St. Karl Marx, merchants' mansions, the Okhlopkov Drama Theater, a walk along the embankment of the Angara River - a monument to Alexander III, the White House, the university, the Museum of Local Lore.
Accommodation in a 4* hotel.
Meals: breakfast, lunch.
Cities: Olkhonsky district, Irkutsk
Attractions: Spasskaya Church, Znamensky Monastery, monument to Alexander III, Lower Angara embankment
8th day
Breakfast. Transfer to the airport or railway station.
Have a nice trip!
Meals: breakfast.
Tour conditions
Meeting point Meeting at the airport at the exit to the city, inside the airport building from 08.00 to 08.30.Meeting at the railway station on the stairs at the exit to the city, inside the station building from 09.00 to 09.30.
Plaque “Crystal ice of Baikal”.
Transfer to the airport or railway station of Irkutsk on the last day of the tour as agreed with tourists. But checkout time at the hotel is 12 o'clock.
Local time!!!+ 5 hours to Moscow. Transport Minibus, khivus (hovercraft). The price includes transport service in a comfortable minibus;
accommodation in rooms with all amenities along the route;
food (days 1-2 – breakfast, lunch; days 3-6 – breakfast, lunch, dinner; day 7 – breakfast, lunch; day 8 – breakfast);
entrance tickets: Taltsy Museum, Baikal Museum, funicular to the Chersky Stone, Pribaikalsky National Park;
dog sled tour;
khivus tour Listvyanka – Bolshiye Koty – Peschanka (stop, picnic) – Bolshoye Goloustnoye – Buguldeika – Sagan Zaba – Olkhon Gate Strait – Sakhyurta – tourist center “World of Baikal”;
tour to Olkhon Island (grottoes);
ATV tour camp site - Olkhon Gate observation deck - Tutai - Zmeinka;
bath;
sightseeing tour of the city;
medical and accident insurance for the entire tour. Possible additional payments Flight or transfer to Irkutsk from the place of arrival and then departure or transfer to the next place of arrival after the end of the program, meals if the program indicates independently or at your own expense, drinks and dishes not included in the main menu of the program, additional services specified in the program for an additional fee or not specified in the program, additional excursions not included in the program. Discounts According to the price table. Meals According to the program. Complex. Meals: days 1-2 – breakfast, lunch; days 3-6 – breakfast, lunch, dinner; Day 7 – breakfast, lunch; Day 8 – breakfast. Important: Citizens of the Russian Federation are recommended to take a compulsory health insurance card for each trip participant when traveling.
If tourists do not show up at the appointed time, no refunds will be made for unused excursions.
It is necessary to arrive at the meeting point at the appointed time, otherwise the responsibility for joining the group falls entirely on the tourist.
In case of worsening weather conditions, we reserve the right to change the tour program or route.
In the autumn-winter period, excursions to the Small Sea and Olkhon are conducted by instructors and drivers.
Accommodation in a double room (i.e., booking one bed in a double room) is possible by agreement with the Dolphin tour operator. Children Accepted from 8 years old Useful tips We recommend taking things:
A warm winter jacket or a windproof down jacket with a hood, but better - warm winter overalls;
Comfortable winter shoes;
Warm clothes (thermal underwear is highly desirable), woolen socks;
Replacement shoes;
Warm hat;
Warm scarf (especially necessary when riding an ATV or snowmobile);
Warm mittens or gloves;
Backpack 15-20 l;
Sunglasses;
Flashlight;
Medicines and personal care products;
Cash;
Spare flash drives for the camera. Documents for the trip Tourist voucher, passport (general civil), for children under 14 years old - birth certificate. Cancellation conditions According to the agreement.
