Lobanov Shchel got its name due to the estate of the Lobanov-Rostovsky princes located here until 1917. This is a fairly deep gorge that cuts through the southern slope of the Navagir ridge, stretching from Anapa to Abrau-Dyurso, 1.5 km east of Cape Maly Utrish (Utrishonok). A stream flows along the valley of the gap, hidden under sediments 1 km from the mouth. At the mouth of the gorge, the right slope is gentle, the left is steep. In the cliff of the left slope facing the sea in 1982, A.V. Dmitriev discovered the remains of stone structures of a burial ground from ancient times. The monument was explored over two field seasons: in 1984, 7 stone tombs were excavated (Dmitriev A.V., 1984), in 1990 - 8 stone tombs (Malyshev A.A., 1990). ...
As excavations have shown, the burial ground structures were covered by thick natural deposits of sedimentary origin (products of annual soil washout along the slope - loam with fine crushed stone) and landslide origin (mainly large crushed stone - the result of a rocky ledge sliding towards the sea) with a total thickness of approx. 2 m, as well as a cultural layer from the Middle Ages.
The burial structures were located quite densely on the burial ground, the distance between the graves was on average 1 m. They were oriented along the West-East axis. The difference in bottom levels in the tombs of adjacent rows was 0.5-1 m.
Plan of the location of the tombs at the Lobanov Shchel burial ground (excavations in 1984 and 1990)
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Drawing of one of the burials |
TO The structural features of the tombs make it possible to distinguish three groups of burial structures. The most numerous were stone boxes - 80%. The bulk of these tombs were stone boxes made of hewn sandstone and located inside ring linings. Judging by the preserved linings of two burials, about 0.5 m high, the ring-shaped stone lining had two levels: the lower (usually one row), consisting of massive stones, which prevented deformation and folding of the box walls inward, and the upper level, which was constructed above the drawer slabs. Similar structures are attested at the burial grounds in Shirokaya Balka, near the village. Dawn, on the field of the Anapa agricultural enterprise, near the salt lake, etc.
Funeral rite. The tombs, judging by the burial of two or more dead people of different ages and genders, were family or ancestral tombs. Single burials are rare and were, apparently, some kind of extraordinary events in the history of this group.
The dead were usually laid on their backs, one next to the other, with their heads to the east, which is quite typical for the funeral rites of this population as a whole. During sub-burial, if there was not enough space, the deceased was laid on top of the bones. The soil overlying the lower skeleton, which penetrated here with pound-deep waters, indicates a significant period of time separating these burials. It was also practiced to move the remains towards the northern wall of the box. It seems that burials of more than two dead in one tomb in burial grounds in the vicinity of Gorgippia (Anapa) are less common than at more southern monuments, in the vicinity of modern Novorossiysk, where this tradition is known in the early Scythian era (Bolshie Khutora burial ground: Dmitriev A.V. ., 1976, p.20).
View of the Lobanov Shchel burial ground in ancient times (reconstruction).
If anyone still thinks that Krasnodar region and the Black Sea coast is exclusively resort towns, beaches with thousands of vacationers and tents with cotton candy, then the time has come to dispel such prejudices and discover the not so obvious true appearance of the south of the European part of Russia. We invite you to go with us on an exploration trip to the Taman Peninsula and walk through the most interesting and protected places of this amazing region! We will visit the famous Abrau-Durso sparkling wine factory, go down for a tasting in wine cellars, swim in the turquoise water of Lake Abrau and get lost in the streets of Durso, cross the foothills Caucasus Mountains and breathe in plenty of sea air on wild picturesque beaches, spend the night in a juniper grove to the sound of the surf, visit the unique Cypress Lake and the village of Ataman. You will get a lot of bright emotions and aesthetic pleasure, because the relief of the peninsula combines both relatively low mountains and ridges, and a huge number of bays, estuaries and salt lakes. There are stunning views here and there, a variety of interesting sights along the way, and some even come on their own, such as the endangered Mediterranean turtles and curious raccoons, which you can carefully feed by hand. This is a combined route, combining both transitions “under a backpack” and radial exits traveling lightly, spending the night in equipped campsites, in tents on the seashore and in cozy hotels.
| Route type | Duration | Route thread | Route complexity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Combined | 7 days/6 nights | Novorossiysk – Abrau-Dyurso – Mokroe Gorge – Maly Utrish – foothills of Sukko – Cypress Lake – village of Ataman-Anapa | Simple. Average physical fitness required |
Brief itinerary:
Day 1. The group meets at the bus station in Novorossiysk at 11:00 am. Transfer to the village of Abrau-Durso, excursion to the champagne factory, overnight in tents at the campsite.
Day 2: Trekking from Abrau to Durso and to the Mokroye Gorge. Overnight in tents at an equipped parking lot .
Day 3: Trekking from Mokroy Gorge to Maly Utrish! Hurray, we are right next to the sea. We swim and spend the night on the seashore!
Day 4: Trekking from Maly Utrish to the village of Sukko. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 5: Radial access to Cypress Lake, boating. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 6: Departure to the village of Ataman. Overnight at a hotel in Anapa.
Day 7: Departure home in the morning.
Detailed itinerary:
Day 1:
Transfer to Abrau-Durso. Champagne Museum.
The group meets with the instructor at 12 o'clock in the morning at the bus station in Novorossiysk. We get acquainted, pack public equipment and go by bus to the village of Abrau-Durso. Upon arrival, we check into a camping tent city and go to lunch in a cafe (lunch = 300 rubles). After lunch, we go on an excursion to the Champagne Museum at the famous Abrau-Durso winery. We will get acquainted with the peculiarities of the production of the famous sparkling wine, we will see the ancient mountain tunnels of the Russian Wine House and a modern winery, we will listen about traditions and recipes in production and, of course, we will try excellent sparkling wine.
The village of Durso and its surroundings is one of the least developed and unspoiled corners of the Black Sea region. sea coast. If you move a little to the side from the village, wild beaches begin, where high cliffs approach directly to the sea. The waves crash against the rocks and scatter into myriads of salty spray - words cannot describe the beauty here, you need to see everything with your own eyes. After visiting the village, we will go further along the road to the Mokroye Gorge Nature Reserve. Today we covered 17 km.
Day 3:
Transition Wet Gorge - Maly Utrish
After yesterday's big trek, today we have to cover a relatively short distance and by lunchtime we will be in Maly Utrish - and for good reason, because this is the very seashore! We will stop at a three-kilometer pebble beach, located at the foot of wild mountains covered with juniper. There are practically no tourists in this area. Of all wild places on the Black Sea coast Krasnodar region Maly Utrish is certainly the wildest and most pristine. There are no paved roads leading here, and on the beaches, even in July and August, people can be counted on one hand. In the second half of the day we will swim and eat seafood, which is sold in the village itself, located nearby. We will set up a camp on the very shore of the sea, or in a juniper grove. For today p roydeno ~ 8 km
Day 4: Transition Maly Utrish – Sukko village
This is the most difficult day of our hike. From Maly Utrish the road is uphill (about 10 km), elevation gain is 400 meters. Further down to the foothills of Sukko. The road is dirt. It passes through the reserve and on the way we will meet many lakes, waterfalls and Mediterranean turtles! After long road We will be rewarded with an overnight stay in a hotel. And in the evening, if we have any strength left, we will go for a walk along the embankment, look into the shops with souvenirs and have dinner in one of the cozy cafes of this resort village. 18 km covered today 
List of required equipment:
Tourist backpack (at least 70 liters! Public equipment and provisions will be distributed among the participants)
- sleeping bag + mat (you can read about their choice).
- light trekking boots + sneakers
- T-shirts, shorts.
- thermal underwear
- fleece jacket
- storm jacket (wind-moisture protection)
- several pairs of running socks
- a hat (for the evening, just in case) and a light headdress (for the day)
- raincoat
- Sunglasses
- personal first aid kit
- personal hygiene items, swimwear
- KLMN (mug, spoon, bowl, knife)
- camera
- headlamp and spare batteries for it
Attention! If you want to purchase any hiking equipment or clothing, but find it difficult to choose, write or call us - we will be happy to help you! For our participants they are valid in many tourist stores in Moscow.
Cost of the trip:
Standard participation fee: 16,000 rub.
Cost of participation when booking until the end of summer 2019:RUB 14,500
What's included in the price:
Three meals a day (except for lunch in a cafe on days 1 and 6)
- hotel accommodation according to the program
- excursion to the Champagne Museum
- public camping equipment (tents, fire pits and cooking utensils)
- rental rowing boats on Cypress Lake
- payment for visiting reserves and parking lots
- all transfers along the route (registered and public transport)
- group first aid kit
- instructor's work
What is not included in the price:
Directions to the city of Novorossiysk
- pocket expenses (souvenirs, etc.)
- lunch in a cafe on days 1 and 6 (approximately 300 rubles)
Payment and booking:
You can pay your participation in full directly to the instructor on the first day of the hike. No later than a month before the start of the trip, a prepayment of 20% of the tour cost is required. A place in a group is reserved only after receiving an advance payment. Convenient way You can choose to make an advance payment after submitting your application for participation.
Features of the trip:
1.
This is a combined route. We will walk, sometimes travel by transport, visit cultural and natural objects, spend the night in tents and hotels. The program is very diverse!
2.
The participation of children under 10 years of age in this hike is not recommended! It will be hard for them!
3.
Trip dates in the second half May holidays not chosen by chance! At this time, it is not so hot in the south and it is pleasant to walk with a backpack, but the first wave of tourists has already passed and there should be no crowds anywhere.
Due to official needs I had to visit Maly Utrish. I hate wild seaside vacation spots with all my heart: mountains of garbage and toilets everywhere. People come from Siberia and live for weeks, months, with small children, in the rain, heat and wind.
Not a single sensible grocery store nearby, what do they eat? The only hydrogen sulfide spring barely gurgles from the pipe - what are they drinking? But they are happy and come again and again. In the evening there are songs and dresses everywhere. Numerous scout camps, colorful flags. There is nowhere to park a car, but a bicycle is just right. The sea is clear as a tear.
Lake Abrau
But if you leave the territory of sounds and smells, you find yourself in an amazing land. True, in this case you have to break the ban, which is stated on the red signs near the old Anapa road: entry into the reserve is prohibited. Since recently, several years, Small and Big Utrish have been state reserves. Huntsmen, camera traps, fines, everything is as it should be. And you won’t go very deep into this dry forest, consisting of elms and junipers. Special thorny grass causes terrible suffering, but how can you not climb when mysterious structures are visible from under the branches?
"Genoa Road"
Lysaya Height (Kazenny Hill)
old juniper
Even older
Before the trip, I checked the Internet for the presence of attractions on Utrish. In Maly Utrish there was a “Byzantine fortress”, explored in the 80s by someone from KubSU, as well as a “burial ground”, but where are they not? Having asked the most avid “sailors” about the fortress, I learned that the place itself, explored by archaeologists, is located in Lobanovaya Gap, which is now problematic to enter due to careful security. Several amphorae (or pithoi, Idk...) were found there. The reconnaissance ended there and no one dug there anymore.
Scheme of the burial ground in Lobanova Shchel (from the arch-report)
In fact, almost the entire area of the village is occupied by stone structures. Here and there the forest will be covered with “walls” connecting “towers”. Stone bridges or dams are thrown over the beams. And of course, high stone mounds, partly excavated. Unfortunately, walking around all this is problematic due to the toilet heaps that certainly accompany any areological monument. But if you plug your nose and mentally cut out the crooked forest, then in your imagination you will see Big city on the shore of the blue sea, teeming with merchants and soldiers. It is likely that the road now passing through the reserve is the same “Genoese” one. It is towards this that the partition walls are oriented, flowing from all over the forest.
It is unlikely that archaeologists will ever begin to study these places. Very unfavorable conditions: solid stone and dryness, and even thorns. Therefore, vacationers are slowly making their own adjustments to the local landscape and now it is difficult to understand what the Genoese built and what the Siberians built.
Having collected all the thorns in my fingers and having admired the view of the sea, I drove back to the Novorossiysk station. While crossing the last gap, I was suddenly bitten by a gadfly and I finally got off the bike. Now my digging leg hurts. This is archeology!
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Legendary place Black Sea coast with a beautiful relict juniper forest.
According to ancient Greek myths, it was here that Jason arrived on the ship of the Argonauts for the Golden Fleece. And Prometheus was chained to one of the local rocks. However, we have already seen and, to which, according to legend, the hero of ancient Greek myths, who brought fire to people, was also chained.
Legends about these lands are still being formed. This is due to the beauty of the sea coast with numerous picturesque bays.
In the distance – Utrish Spit
View of the beaches of Utrish
The Bolshoi Utrish Nature Reserve was created in the mid-90s with the aim of preserving unique relict plants, mountain and sea landscapes. At the end of 2010, part of the reserve’s lands became part of the Utrish State Nature Reserve.
Juniper forest of the Utrish nature reserve
On the territory of the reserve there is the village of Bolshoi Utrish, we will look there later. Now let's take a walk through the delightful relict juniper grove.
Many red-listed plants and animals live here. Three types of juniper grow in the protected natural area: tall, reddish and foul-smelling (the latter was so named because of its pungent odor). Some of them are more than a thousand years old.
The value of this plant is not only in its beauty and antiquity, but also in its medicinal properties. Representatives of the juniper family emit volatile substances into the atmosphere that destroy microbes and pathogenic viruses. The air infused with juniper phytoncides and iodine ions evaporating from the surface of the sea makes a walk through the reserve truly healing.
How cool are the trees here!
The juniper forest grows in a limited area, an area of only tens of kilometers, which raises questions among researchers: why does the forest not spread further? Most likely, the answer lies in the most comfortable climate of the area.
Outlandish trunks of old trees
In addition to juniper, Pitsunda pine, boxwood (iron tree), yew, mackerel and even pistachio grow in the reserve. Raccoons, squirrels, rare Mediterranean peacock butterflies and others also live here.
The vegetation here is simply fantastic. Given my love for unusual trees, I received great pleasure from contemplating them.
If you have some imagination, you can see anything in these trunks
And what kind of stones are there! You can also admire them for a long time. Nature is a great landscape designer.
Our youngest is on a pebble
The children were delighted with the juniper thickets, hid in them and climbed the trees.
If I were a child, I would climb too...
Walking along the path, we came to a cliff above the sea.
In the distance – Utrish Spit
View of Utrishonok Island
A cliff... Such a height that it’s scary to approach...
And an extremely picturesque stump
Ships are visible in the distance, there is a very strong smell of algae and iodine.
Just a fantastic stump, right? With the head of an Indian or wind god
Having overcome my fear of heights, I went to the edge...
Took a photo with a picturesque tree stump
And also from this perspective
From here there is a beautiful view of the Bolshoi Utrish Peninsula and Utrishonok Island. This text was stolen from the Roads of the World website (site)!
In the distance are the Bolshoy Utrish Peninsula and Utrishonok Island
Utrishonok Island
And if you look in the opposite direction, you can see Mount Sukko with an inscription.
Mount Sukko, covered with geographical inscriptions
Alas, there was not enough time to go there.
Amazing tree - pistachio obtufolia
We have seen boxwood, juniper, and Pitsunda pine before on the Black Sea coast. But this was the first time we saw pistachio in these parts.
It is also called keva wood (“keva” means “resin” in Georgian). Residents of Georgia, by cutting the bark of a pistachio tree, collect resin, which they chew to strengthen their gums. However, the famous physician Avicenna used pistachio resin to heal patients. Even today it is used as part of ointments that heal scratches, wounds and burns.
The pistachio lives up to a thousand years or more. A living witness of the past centuries.
Amazing tree! The leaf of the pistachio obtufolia resembles that of ash, the aroma is similar to pine, and the fruits resemble bunches of wild grapes. And instead of a berry inside there is a nut. You just can’t eat these nuts! These are not the pistachios that we enjoy salted with beer.
You can only admire these pistachios. In addition, this plant is in the Red Book. And on the territory of the reserve it is generally prohibited to collect any parts of plants.
Pistachio obtufolia looks most beautiful at the end of summer, when some of the fruits are red and some are blue. Well, we saw it when some of the fruits had already turned yellow.
How to get to the Utrish nature reserve. The protected area is located on the Abrau Peninsula, between the villages of Sukko and Maly Utrish. You can come here from Gelendzhik, Novorossiysk or Anapa. From the latter to Bolshoi Utrish it is only 15 kilometers. In the summer they go here at short intervals Shuttle Buses and minibuses (No. 109, but better check with locals).
You can come by your own car. As you drive, the main road turns left there, and go straight to Bolshaya Utrish. But keep in mind: traveling through the natural area of the reserve by car is prohibited.
In summer you can take a boat from seaport Anapa.
The area of the natural protected zone is more than 5 thousand hectares. We saw only a small part of the Bolshoi Utrish reserve, but at such a beautiful time, when greenery is combined with gold and crimson. However, the quaint trees of the juniper grove will not leave anyone indifferent at any time of the year.
Did you like the Utrish nature reserve?
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