In Russian, market and bazaar are synonyms. Well, or almost synonyms. After all, we are talking about the meaning of these concepts at the everyday level, right? And we do not touch upon their conceptual ambiguity either in sociology or economics. The word bazaar is of Turkic origin; it reeks of something noisy and chaotic. The word market suggests something more orderly and civilized. That's the whole difference for a Russian person.
But not for Turkey. Here, in order to be understood correctly, to understand that you meant exactly this specific concept, and not a store at all, you should use the word “bazaar”.
In Asian countries, including Turkey, a bazaar is a place where you can buy and sell food and goods. The significance of this element of social structure is great. For some it is a source of livelihood, for others it is a workplace, some sell surplus harvested crops or their handicrafts there, some make money from resale, others buy goods in a more convenient place and cheaper.
But for all the locals, this is an invaluable opportunity for an Eastern person to communicate, to play clever verbal games during bargaining, to show off and see people. That is, something more than just a place of trade. For any region of the country, the bazaar is its unique face, the place where the flavor and cultural traditions of this particular part of the country are revealed to the world. This is the place where you can observe real people of a particular country in their true form.
The bazaar itself consists of space directly for trading activities and a place for buyers. But there are also numerous additional elements on its territory that are very attractive especially for guests of the country - these are all kinds of places where you can have a snack or ancient mosques.
Sometimes the bazaar buildings themselves are architectural monuments, while the value of others is determined by the fact that they function in their usual role for a significant time. Such bazaars are called historical; they were and remain places where people buy and sell. But at the same time, they acquired a completely different atmosphere: the breath of past times is palpable here, shopping is a small journey into the past of Istanbul.
Historic Balik Pazari Market – A Delicious Food Feast
It is often called the fish market, but many markets in Istanbul, a city located on the water, are known by this name. But contrary to the name, fish markets in Istanbul sell more than just fish.
The crowded Kadikoy street market, located near the pier, spreads across a large area of narrow streets and alleys. On one side it is bounded by Sogutlu Cesme Caddesi streets and the beginning of the Sun Street (Gunesli Bahçe Sokak), and on the other by the Mooring Mosque (İskele Camii). This is a separate world, lively, noisy, colorful, capable of delighting any gourmet.
This is a kingdom of shops selling the freshest (bright red gills and bulging eyes!) and the most varied fish, squid, mussels, octopus, meat, groceries, gastronomy, herbs, vegetables, all kinds of nuts, delicacies, dried fruits, fruits, dozens of varieties of bread , sweets and wonderful hot pastries.
There are also numerous eateries specializing in preparing dishes of various cuisines. On the territory of this Kadikoy market there is the famous Ciya restaurant, or rather, all three of its branches are located here, a stone's throw from each other.
In the grocery stores of local traders, among traditional goods you can find marinades, pickles, rare cheeses, spices, seasonings, various teas, and medicinal herbs from all regions of the country. The business of many owners has existed for several, sometimes three or four, generations. The walls of the shops are decorated with photographs of the ancestors of the current owners, all those grandparents and uncles who previously ran the business.
Professionalism, which has been honed over several generations, is visible even in the movements of sellers. For example, a person just cleans, cuts and packs fish, but how does he do it! Economical, precise, dexterous, dance-like movements of a true master!
You can look, walk, try, whatever, even inhale the smells of the market for a long time. And what a pleasant time it will be!
Bottomless Cornucopia – Tuesday Market Salı Pazarı
There are 5 major markets in Istanbul:
- Fatih
- Besiktas
- Yesilkoy
- Salı Pazarı (Tuesday Market) in Kadikoy
In total, more than 200 markets operate in Istanbul every week. In Turkey they offer more than just fruits and vegetables. Or rather, they sell almost every conceivable product there. Quality can vary greatly - from ideal to practical defects. Therefore, check the quality of the products. And - bargain, this is the east!
Open on Tuesdays or, more modestly, on Fridays, the huge Salı Pazarı market offers a huge variety of goods: fish, fruits and vegetables, cheap clothes, dishes and much more.
It was once located in the center of Kadikoy near Altıyol Square, but in 2008 it moved to a new, more spacious location. Now you need to get to it by taxi or, if by bus, then this: from the ferry, take bus 8 or 8A and go to the “Mandıra Caddesi” stop (if I remember correctly).
However, we were deprived of the joy of visiting it because we were there on Wednesday.
Fashion District - the center of attraction
The somewhat confusing name of this area means the same thing in Turkish as it does in Russian. There are a lot of options for its origin. The simplest one associates the name with the fact that at some point in the 19th century this place became extremely popular, that is, fashionable.
Fashion District Istanbul - occupies a peninsula in the south of Kadikoy. People with a rich imagination compare the outlines of Kadikoy with a face in profile, the nose of which is Fashion. Well, I don’t know, I didn’t see the similarity.
Moda is a traditionally residential and prestigious place, a favorite place for Kadikoy residents of all ages. There are magnificent views of the sea, wonderful fresh air, numerous cafes, parks, old houses with colorful pastel facades.
You can get here on foot along the embankment from the ferries or by retro tram, although it does not reach the very tip of the peninsula. Among the attractions in Moda there is a small theater, several churches, lyceums, and many good restaurants.
Destination – Kadikoy Fashion
When you walk towards the tea gardens along Moda Street, there are a couple of places where you can grab a bite to eat. One of them - with reasonable prices - is near the intersection of Moda Street and Cem Sokak. The second thing, called Moda Kup, look for it near Ali Usta ice cream, it has a rich assortment. The landmark is the intersection of Moda Street and Ferit Tek Sokak.
From this fork you can go right, towards the tea gardens. Or head left to get to Koco, a seafood restaurant that has been around for nearly a hundred years.
We're going to the right. Along Ferit Tek Street, where cafes and restaurants Dodo, Kırıntı, Casa Di Moda, Guvert Cafer are lined up one after another, we enter the park - to the Moda tea gardens.
Why do people love Fashion?
Do you know what incredible ice cream is here? They say that Ali Usta specially comes from other cities to eat ice cream. Deliciously delicious, with nuts, vanilla, cognac... What I ate, unforgettable, was with almonds and caramel. And Kemal Usta’s waffles are crispy and tasty, exactly the same as they were in childhood...
Here's another reason to love. Moda is known for its pleasant tea gardens. They were placed on an artificially leveled rock base. From them there is a view of the Sea of Marmara, on the contrary, across the water, the historical peninsula is visible. On the left we look at the Fenerbahce lighthouse, the Princes' Islands, on the right flank in front of us is Haydarpasa.
An unforgettable feature of the Kadikoy area is the fantastic view of the horizon and the beautiful embankment that stretches like a snake along the edge of the earth.
It's a mess in the tea gardens
I don’t know which drink in Turkey – tea or coffee – is more popular, but I know that they love tea here. At any time of the day, at work or at home, Turks drink a rich red drink. This color is referred to here as the color of rabbit blood. In Turkey, tea is not brewed, but boiled. And they are served in small special glass cups, and not at all in cups, as is customary in our country. The glasses are very elegantly shaped. They are called "mess". They are transparent so that you can admire the beautiful color of the tea.
They drink their favorite invigorating drink not only at work and at home: there are special places for this - the so-called “tea gardens”.
Well, what is all the trouble with the head in the tea gardens? It's simple. Turkish tea (surprise!) – tea. The request for a glass of tea sounds like this: “bir mess tea.” Well, if you want more, then we boldly say: “your head is a mess.”
In the park, under the canopies of hundred-year-old trees and among flowers, it is a place for retirees and mothers with children to walk. Here we are greeted by a giant plane tree, the trunk of which is covered with ivy. We pass by and see a dog lying at ease on the path, in a patch of sunlight. This is the local inhabitant, her name is Rimbaud. It is a nobody's business, that is, it is public. She has a friend - also a social one - the cat Ramadan. They roam freely in the tea gardens. Animals are vaccinated. It is clear that they are well-fed and in good condition. Therefore, guests should not be afraid when a cat sits down next to them, on the next chair. It happens that for some things that are especially attractive to her, the cat jumps onto her knees and easily settles down there, pretending to be dozing. But in fact, everyone’s favorite is waiting for a treat, which she gladly accepts.
In the evenings, there is nowhere for an apple to fall in the tea gardens. You need to come from morning to noon on weekdays, then there are no such crowds of people. You sit on a bench and look at the sailing boats of the local yacht club, ferries and sea buses going to the Princes' Islands. It's like you're on a continuous excursion. This is a wonderful place to watch the sunset and the stars appearing in the sky. And if the sea is calm, then you can see a magical light moonlit path on the water.
And now we are heading to the pier in Moda. Forgotten and left to the mercy of fate for many years, it is now the calling card of the quarter. There is a river nearby that flows into the Sea of Marmara. Ataturk once visited these places and, enchanted, said: “Let a yacht club be built here!” And, of course, a yacht club arose on the banks of the river.
RSS Email Istanbul is geographically unique in that it is located in two parts of the world at once - Europe and Asia. Naturally, this significantly influenced its history, culture and national composition. Asian and, sometimes very similar, and sometimes very different. In this short article I will try to dispel popular myths about the Asian part of Istanbul.
Asian and European parts of Istanbul - aerial photography
When you fly to Istanbul for the first time, most of what you will see of the famous attractions of Istanbul will be the sights of its European part, oddly enough. Yes, in the Asian part there are many interesting places, both modern and historical, but still, the leader in tourist activity is the European part. Tourists, as a rule, have more information about the European part and are more interested in it, but believe me, you can see a lot in Asia too! But, first things first.
Population and areas of the Asian part of Istanbul
Of the 39 districts of Istanbul, which are sometimes called districts for ease of understanding (read more on our website), 14 are located in its Asian or, as the Turks themselves say, Anatolian part. The remaining 25 are located in Europe. About 1/3 of all live in Asia.
Active growth and development of this part of Istanbul began after the construction of the first bridge over the Bosphorus in the 1970s. Today, in connection with the commissioning of the Marmaray project (a metro tunnel under the Bosphorus), plans for the construction of a third bridge across the Bosphorus, as well as the development of metro lines, the Asian part of the city has received previously inaccessible potential for further development.
The following districts of Istanbul Province are currently located in Asia:
- Adalar (Adalar, Princes' Islands);
- Ataşehir (Ataşehir);
- Beykoz (Beykoz);
- Çekmeköy (Chekmekoy);
- Kadıköy (Kadikoy);
- Kartal (Kartal);
- Maltepe (Maltepe);
- Sancaktepe (Sanjaktepe);
- Sultanbeyli (Sultanbeyli);
- Şile (Sile);
- Tuzla (Tuzla);
- Ümraniye (Yumraniye);
- Üsküdar (Yuskudar).
You can read detailed information about each of the districts of the Asian part of Istanbul in the article “” on our website, and you can see the Asian part and its attractions on the map using ours.
On the map of Istanbul districts you can see the Asian and European parts of the city and the areas located in them
Myths about the Asian part of Istanbul
Myth No. 1 The most famous myth that I have ever heard is that in the Asian part everything is different than in the European part, as if here you find yourself in “classical Turkey”, like somewhere in Anatolia. I answer you this way. Of course, there are differences, since they are determined by the historical development of the city, but they are not fundamental and every year they become fewer and fewer. Naturally, the population of such areas as Yüsküdar or Kadikoy is more conservative, but, nevertheless, in other areas, you will not feel much difference or “Asian flavor”.
Myth No. 2 Europe is a tourist and business center, and Asia is a village. What can I say about this famous myth - the province of Istanbul consists of both urban and rural districts, which are located in both the Asian and European parts. Accordingly, both in Europe and in Asia there are residential areas and business and industrial areas. Also, the level of well-being of residents, and the general social and criminal situation in Istanbul varies from one area to another, but certainly not from the Asian part to the European part.
Myth No. 3 In the Asian part of Istanbul there is nothing to see in terms of attractions and nothing for tourists to do in general. I will actively argue with this statement, since here you can find not only world-famous attractions, but also recreational areas and even large shopping centers.
I will tell you in more detail about the famous areas and attractions of Asia.
Famous golfer Tiger Woods symbolically connects Europe and Asia with his swing
The most famous areas and attractions of the Asian part of Istanbul
The pearl of the Asian part of Istanbul, rightfully, is the Princes' Islands - a popular holiday destination for Istanbul residents and tourists from all over the world. Here you can find both fish restaurants and beaches, as well as ancient Orthodox shrines, such as the Monastery of St. George on the island of Buyukada.
Kadikoy is a major transport hub, which can be recognized by the Haydarpasa Station building and the pier. The narrow streets of the Fashion and nostalgic tram quarter will probably not leave anyone indifferent.
Yusküdar is one of the oldest districts of Istanbul, which was previously a separate settlement. The mosques created by the court architect of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, Mimar Sianan, greet you as you approach Yusküdar by ferry. And the fish market is simply a huge selection of the freshest fish and seafood delicacies.
Bosphorus Bridge connects Europe and Asia in Istanbul
Few people can be surprised by a trip to Istanbul. True, most of the tourists visit the standard set of local beauties, usually Sofia, Topkapi, Blue Mosque, Cistern, Suleymaniye, Galata Tower, Istiklal, “tour of the Bosphorus”, Grand Bazaar. This time we decided to break out of the vicious circle of the most popular attractions and move to the Asian part of Istanbul.
I’ll say right away that it’s unrealistic to get around all the sights of the huge Yusküdar in one day. We did not take this moment into account. But they still managed to do quite a lot, and even captured a small piece of neighboring Kadykoy. Before the trip, I bought the Afishevsky guide, but it seemed too superficial and subjective in terms of attractions. I had to buy my unloved “Around the World”. And unexpectedly it turned out to be very neat and thorough, a quite suitable book. They walked along it. Thanks to the authors istanbul_blog
. I took the clever text in quotes from their website http://stambul4you.ru.
Attractions from the report on the Asian part on the map of Istanbul:
So let's begin. We got to Üsküdar by ferry from the Eminönü pier. The pleasure is quite inexpensive, just like a regular tram. For about 30 rubles. you have the opportunity to gaze at the Bosphorus and views of Istanbul from the water. For example, Dolmobahce Palace can be seen in the distance after this trip.
And here is the Dolmabahce Mosque.
At the Üsküdar pier, it immediately becomes clear that you are in Asia. Even against the backdrop of the rest of the bustle of Istanbul, real hell reigns in the square: heat, crowds of people, crazy arrogant buses, etc.
The first attraction, the Iskele Mosque, is also located on the pier. Actually, this means “pier” in Turkish.
“Religious complex in Yusküdar in 1547-1548. built by the architect Sinan for the beloved daughter of Sultan Suleiman I - Mihrimah from his fourth wife - the notorious Roxalana. The architect used a solution that was unconventional for that time, covering the fountain for ablutions—shadyrvan—with the roof of the entrance gallery. For this reason, the interior of the mosque turned out to be quite dark.”
I admit that, in my profane opinion, all the mosques in Istanbul look the same. So “Sinan’s masterpiece” stuck with me only for its dark galleries (see photo). Usually the courtyards near mosques, where Turks wash their feet, read newspapers, just sit relaxed, open, but here with a low roof. Moreover, this is one of the few mosques in Istanbul where there are a lot of visitors. From what I saw, only the Fatih Mosque had more people praying; most of the others are completely empty during the daytime.
A five-minute walk from the pier, the next point is the Yeni Valide Mosque. Architecturally, I found it more interesting than Iskele. However, Yusküdar Yeni Valide (there is another with the same name next to the Egyptian Bazaar) was built a century and a half later.
“Emetullah Rabia Gulnush Sultan was kidnapped as a child from the Greek island of Crete and brought to Topkapi Palace. Fortunately, she did not get lost among other concubines, but became the beloved wife of Mehmed IV and bore him two sons, both of whom later became sultans - Mustafa II and his younger brother Ahmed III. The court architect Mehmed Agha designed the Valide Sultan mausoleum in a very unusual way - the octagonal tomb has no roof, and a decorative metal lattice serves as a dome. Therefore, it is often compared to a delightful “bird cage”. As the legend goes, the mother simply asked to be buried so that the rains would wash her. After all, in Islam, rain is considered a manifestation of God’s forgiveness.”
We returned to the embankment again to look at the last mosque of the famous Sinan.
“The mosque, named after the ruler of Anatolia and Rumelia, Shemsi Ahmed Pasha, who served at the court of Sultan Suleiman I, is located right on the banks of the Bosphorus. The construction, which was carried out by the architect Sinan, was completed in 1580...This complex became one of the small and last works of Mimar Sinan. According to legend, not a single bird will sit on the dome or minaret or stain the mosque as a sign of respect for the work of the great architect. Perhaps that is why another name for the mosque is Kushkonmaz (Kuşkonmaz - the bird will not land).”
Externally, the mosque was not at all impressive. Yes, and it seemed to me that the arrogant, soulless seagulls were still secretly shitting on the domes.
For photographing this innocent monument to Ataturk, I was almost shot by a local soldier. Behind it was the office of some Turkish Ministry of Internal Affairs. When trying to translate a quote from the monument, Google returned something strange: “How happy is Turku alone.” In fact, this is Ataturk’s catchphrase “What a blessing to be a Turk!” Almost plagiarism of the famous Suvorov aphorism.
By the way, the first impression that “the Asian part of Istanbul is so Asian” turned out to be deceptive. Further along the embankment there were quite pretentious and wealthy mansions.
True, I also came across ordinary Istanbul wooden junk.
And of course views of the Bosphorus and Europe.
“In Turkey, holy springs are called Ayazma... Since ancient times, religious buildings have been built in such places and people have gone there to drink clean, healing water and ask God for help or healing. The Ayazma Mosque in Yusküdar was built on the orders of Sultan Mustafa III between 1758 and 1761... They say that to make the cementing mixture, this master used almost 9 thousand eggs, over 800 kg of honey and a large amount of mercury, bought for a thousand kurus."
I liked the mosque with its very cozy and green courtyard.
But the holy spring itself was somewhat disappointing. Or is it not him?
Undoubtedly, a big plus of Istanbul mosques is the presence of a free toilet. True, they are somewhat specific: very low booths, a hole in the floor, an obligatory water hose and a jug. However, everything is quite clean and well maintained.
By the way, here is a house in a typical Istanbul coloring. This is the same Ottoman pink, although somewhat faded in the sun and sea winds.
“When the news of Saddullah Pasha’s suicide reached Istanbul, his wife Necibe Hanim did not believe it. She put on an elegant red-brown dress that her husband liked so much and vowed that she would wear it until she saw her betrothed again. As is known, "Ottoman pink"- not the best color of clothing for a Muslim woman mourning her husband. But the widow kept her promise - despite the disapproval of neighbors and relatives, she stubbornly continued to wear this dress until her old age. On the second floor of her residence on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus, in a room with a red-brown interior, dressed in a dress of the same color, the faithful wife silently and patiently waited for her husband's return for many years, not believing in his death. She lived in this “Ottoman pink” grief until 1917, when she died at the age of 80.”
The Yusküdar embankment turned out to be endless. There were practically no tourists, so there were no restaurants that looked decent. Our girls began to show slight anxiety. Finally I found something decent in a two-story wooden house overlooking the Bosphorus. But here a set-up awaited us: the menu was only in Turkish, and accordingly, the local waiters did not understand anything other than Turkish. In principle, it doesn’t matter, but Olka categorically does not accept lamb, which makes up 90% of Turkish food. “It’s like snatching a dog,” she says. I had to act out a pantomime, depicting a cow and a sheep. "Baee, meee, muuu!" - rushed across the entire terrace from our table. The waiters were very impressed by our clownery, which is probably why they brought Olka lamb, of course.
How funny Olka and I were back in 2010.
Then we were attacked by bliss. And there was a reason. The aborigines (you can read more about them) sat in flocks on the coastal rocks and stupidly did nothing. Although no, they still condescended to do two things: husk huge white seeds and drink beer. True, the young Turks shyly dived into the crevices of the stones. But no one was ashamed of the seeds; the husks filled the sidewalks, much like poplar fluff in Moscow in June. We bought several bags of seeds from a passing cart and also indulged in this debauchery.
“The white tower, standing on a rock about one cable cable from the Asian shore of the Imrahor-Salacak district, where the waters of the Bosphorus meet the Sea of Marmara, has long become not only a romantic symbol of the Yusküdar district, but of the whole of Istanbul. Locals call it Kız Kulesi (Kız Kulesi - Maiden's Tower), Europeans prefer to call Leander's Tower. Both names connect it with beautiful legends of love. The first tells how a young man named Leander sailed every night on secret dates with his beloved Hero, who was a priestess of Aphrodite and, for the sake of her betrothed, broke her vow of celibacy. Every night Leander swam, guided by the fire of the torch that Gero lit. But one day the torch went out and Leander, lost in the darkness, drowned. Having lost her beloved, the girl climbed the tower and threw herself into the sea... the second legend."
We ignored the tower; even Olka’s photo shows that the island is just an anthill of tourists. But the view of it is quite satisfying.
The sun was already setting, and we had only seen a small part of the sights of Yuskudar. I had to speed up sharply, and finally the towers of Selim's barracks appeared. Having overcome an unimaginably high staircase, we moved from the embankment deeper into the area. As a prize we got a couple of lustful Istanbul cats.
"The construction of new barracks began in 1828 during the reign of Mahmud II and was fully completed only under Abdulmecid I. The barracks became the headquarters of the First Turkish Army - the largest military unit in the country. A rectangular building in plan, with four sides adjacent high towers, amazes with its palace splendor. In the center of the courtyard there is a spacious front platform, and the total length of the barracks corridors is about 2.5 km."
The barracks are really huge. It was not possible to really remove them due to the thermonuclear sun and the menacing-looking soldiers guarding the entire perimeter and glaring unkindly at our five.
A stone's throw from the barracks is the Selimiye Mosque (1805).
On the one hand, there is a pretentious and huge building, such a typical imperial building.
On the other hand, it is quite elegant and light in appearance, with a shady garden in the courtyard. The only unnerving thing was the ubiquitous soldiers in full gear with M-16s at the ready.
We wandered around the streets of Yuskudar a little more. The area seemed quite calm and not at all touristy, I didn’t notice much color, the residential areas were rather boring. And then we came to a giant cemetery. I didn't take a photo, but it's impressive. Here is a short excerpt from the guidebook:
"Karaja Ahmed is not only one of the oldest, but also the largest Muslim cemetery in Istanbul. ...The oldest grave that has survived to this day dates back only to 1521. In the area occupied by the cemetery, there is about a million graves. The ornament of a gravestone carries information about the deceased. Above male graves, the upper part of the stele is usually made in the form of a headdress. Thus, a luxurious turban shows the high social status of the deceased, and the size of the fez, which since 1828 was worn, for example, by every civil servant, also speaks of this. The burials of members of the Sufi brotherhood are easily recognized by the tombstones with cone-shaped caps. And a characteristic sign of the janissary’s resting place is a peculiar headdress with a shlyk hanging from behind, symbolizing the sleeve of the holy dervish. Monuments to female persons are easily distinguished by their more sophisticated decorations - carved flowers, hats, scarves. By the way, the number of flowers on the tombstone usually corresponds to the number of children the deceased had."
A minibus stop was spotted at the entrance to the cemetery. Shouldn't we stop by Kadikoy for an hour? And we stopped by.
The Asian region struck me with its Europeanness. We didn’t go too deep, although we walked through the famous Moda and the surrounding streets, and the first impression turned out to be very pleasant. Next time we will definitely have to finish off this area.
The Asian part of Istanbul plays a secondary role compared to the European part. But if you look at it, it will become obvious: the “other shore” is no worse than Sultanahmet or Taksim. To start your journey, you need to take a ferry to Kadikoy. A number of intriguing attractions already await there.
What to see in the Asian part of Istanbul
Street market on Tuesdays
If you are lucky enough to visit Kadikoy on Tuesday, you can visit the famous street market. Saly Pazari became a local landmark back in 1969. Naturally, as the population of Istanbul grew, the scale of the market also increased. The bazaar sells mainly fruits and vegetables, but the atmosphere of a truly Istanbul market is priceless. And on Sunday, sellers of antiques, furniture and jewelry come to replace food vendors.
Kadikoy Daily Market
Without waiting for Tuesday, you can visit the daily market. There are many good pastry shops, bookstores and cafes with terraces. Some restaurants take up entire blocks. It is also advisable to look into the shops and buy fresh cheese or nuts. Marzipan, Turkish delight, and also inexpensive wine - all this definitely deserves the attention of buyers.
Fenerbahce Park and Fenerbahce and Kalamysh Pier
Fenerbahçe and Kalamış pier has a total of 1,120 ships, making it the largest in Turkey. You can find the pier 200 meters from the Fenerbahce stadium. And then you should go to the park of the same name, which is famous for its many cafes and charming views of the Sea of Marmara. In a well-kept park, blooming flower beds await visitors, and every corner of Fenerbahçe is simply filled with romance. Newlyweds are constantly photographed here, and in the evenings local residents stroll along its alleys.
Baghdad Avenue
Today, the area around Baghdad Avenue (or Baghdad Street) is an upper-class residential area. The avenue itself is well known for its chic shops of local and famous brands, shopping centers, department stores, pubs and restaurants serving Turkish and international cuisine. In this atmospheric area, almost all shops are open daily, making Baghdad Avenue a true paradise for any shopaholic.
Haydarpasa Station
Anyone who takes the ferry to Kadikoy cannot miss the Haydarpasa port and train station. The first is Turkey's oldest and main container terminal, while the second is a neo-Renaissance building built in 1908. The station served as the starting point for the Istanbul-Damascus and Istanbul-Baghdad routes. The main building is located on an artificially created peninsula.
Uskudar District
This area of the Asian part inherited mansions, fountains and palaces from the Ottoman Empire. One of the interesting buildings is the Beylerbeyi Palace, which intricately combines Eastern and Western styles. It was built from stone and white marble, and as a result the palace turned into one of the most beautiful residences of the sultans. If we briefly list other notable attractions, then it is worth paying attention to the Selim Barracks and the Akhmet Fountain. Uskudar is also famous for its streets where colorful markets are hidden.
Maiden's Tower
The tower, which can only be reached by boat, has given rise to a lot of legends. It is believed that it was built by the Greeks. Over its long history, the Maiden Tower has been a prison, a lighthouse, a customs office, and today it is a recognizable symbol of both the Asian part and the entire city. Currently there is an observation deck and a restaurant here. Getting to the tower is easier and cheaper from the Asian area, from the Salacak quarter.
The Asian side of Istanbul includes the calm, even peaceful Kadıköy district. You won’t find noisy crowds of tourists here, but traveling through this part of the metropolis will be all the more interesting. Walking slowly through the local streets, you feel the real spirit of Turkey.
You can get to Kadikoy from the European side by ferry, land transport or metro (under the Bosphorus). A short trip across the strait by ferry will be a great pleasure. During it, you will have the opportunity to admire many of Istanbul’s attractions, anticipating a meeting with the true Istanbul, without European influence and embellishment.
Kadikoy 1950
Kadıköy is the oldest Turkish region. It is a known historical fact that back in the 7th century BC. On this territory, through the efforts of the Dorians, the town of Khalkedon was founded. The name of this settlement is translated as “Kadiya village”. Most likely, the city was under the jurisdiction of the local prosecutor (kadyya), hence the name.
Kadikoy is especially interesting for Orthodox Christians coming to Istanbul. The fact is that in 451 the Fourth Ecumenical Council was held in this area. Several functioning Orthodox shrines have survived to this day in this territory. Each of the churches is under the jurisdiction of the Chalcedonian Metropolis, which in turn is subordinate to the Patriarchate of Constantinople.
Kadikoy today
For a long time, Kadikoy was part of the Yuskyudar district; on March 23, 1930, Kadikoy was separated into a separate municipal district. Over the next 10 years, in accordance with the district development plan, the population of the Kadıköy-Kızıltoprak-Bostancı regions increased by 2.5 times. Citizens working on the European side, after a working day, returned home to the Asian side on ferries: to Yusküdar, Bostancı and Modu. That is why maritime passenger transport has been an important connecting point in Istanbul.
When the first bridge across the Bosphorus Strait was opened in 1970, the load on maritime passenger transport decreased markedly. In the 1980s, Istanbul Municipality, in accordance with a new development plan, presented Kadikoy as a residential area. The population of the modern Kadikoy region today is 452,302 people.
How to get to Kadikoy
Kadikoy Marina
If you are staying on the European side, in order to get to the Kadikoy area you will need to take a ferry across the Bosphorus (this is the simplest and easiest way). Ferries depart from Beşiktaş, Kabataş, Karaköy and Eminönü piers.
The closest pier to Sultanahmet, Laleli or Aksaray is Eminönü, which can be reached by tram.
If you are staying in the area, then it is easier for you to get to the Kabatas pier. You can get to the pier by cable car, and when leaving the station, cross the road - the pier is a 2-3 minute walk.
For those staying in Nisantasi, Ulus or Etiler, Besiktas Marina is the closest.
Regardless of which pier you depart from, you need to swim to Kadikoy pier.
Popular streets and attractions of Kadikoy
Once in Kadikoy, you can literally be confused by the abundance of shops and galleries. Along the streets there are antique and second-hand bookstores, small cafes and chic restaurants, boutiques with jewelry, handmade goods and fashionable designer clothes. It seems that there is nothing in the world that cannot be seen and bought in Kadikoy.
This Istanbul district is simply a treasure trove of attractions. Literally every building, every corner of Kadikoy is saturated with history and deserves special attention.
Haydarpaşa Station (Haydarpaşa garı)
Modern view of Haydarpasa Station in Istanbul
This railway junction dates back to the beginning of the 20th century. It was built over two years, from 1906 to 1908. It was from here that the railway tracks leading from Istanbul to Baghdad began.
The design of the monumental station building was carried out by two German architects - Helmut Kuno and Otto Richter. The structure rises on a small island, surrounded by the sea on three sides. Ferries constantly run from this pier, transporting residents and guests of Istanbul to its various parts.
Railway tracks of Haydarpasa station
Tourists and locals love to take pictures with the local attraction - the monument to the steam locomotive, located directly next to the station wall.
In 2010, a severe fire hit Haydarpaşa. The historical building suffered greatly; restoration work began literally immediately, but the reconstruction has not yet been completed to this day.
Kadikoy embankment
Kadikoy embankment in Istanbul
The Kadykey embankment is a vast seaside area lined with impressive stones. These cobblestones have long been chosen by local youth. You can very often see young men and women having picnics on the surface of warm stones, and couples admiring the views of the Bosphorus.
The embankment is a great place for walking with children and playing various sports. Parents of children bring them to local playgrounds; teenagers love to spend time riding bicycles and rollerblading. There are special paths for this purpose.
Bull statue (Boğa heykeli)
Bull statue in Kadikoy
Everyone who was lucky enough to visit Kadikoy knows about this Istanbul attraction. The monument dedicated to the bull is especially loved by local residents, who make appointments and dates near this chic monument. Geographically, the bronze bull is located on Altiyol Square, at the intersection of six roads.
The history of this unusual monument is very interesting. The monument is more than a century and a half old. The statue was designed and sculpted by the Frenchman Isidore Jules Bonheur, who became famous throughout the world for his animalistic sculptural compositions. Throughout its existence, the bronze bull was “relocated” several times from one point in Istanbul to another. He finally moved to Kadikoy in 1976, and it was here that the statue became truly popular and recognizable by residents all over the world.
Bahariye Street (Bahariye caddesi)
Bahariye Street in Kadikoy
Bahariye Street is actually a spacious pedestrian sidewalk. A historical tram runs in the middle of the street, starting from the pier; cars also periodically travel along the tram tracks. The official name of the tram street is General Asım Gündüz Cd., but your reference point is the tram stop called Bahariye.
Everything here seems to be saturated with romance. Even the curbs that border the street on both sides are made unusually, in the shape of large multi-colored balls. Throughout Bahariya you can find a huge number of shops and cafes. The buildings of the city opera house and a large educational center are located on this street.
Bahariye Street is a paradise for shopaholics. In local shops and boutiques you can find everything your heart desires. At the very end of the street space there is an interesting monument - a sculptural composition in the shape of a chicken. This original monument replaced the classical fountain that once stood here.
Street of Craftsmen (Sanatçılar sokağı)
Handicrafts Street in Kadikoy
The Street of Craftsmen is famous for the monument to Ali Suavi, a well-known journalist and scientist far beyond Turkey. The monument is one of the favorite photographic areas among city guests and local residents.
Graffiti on the side of houses in Kadikoy
The name of this street in the Kadikoy district speaks for itself. Here, right in the fresh air, local sculptors, artists and masters of other disciplines are engaged in creative activities, whose works can be purchased by anyone.
Antique street (Antikacılar sokağı)
Antique street in Kadikoy
For those interested in antiques, old books and other unusual things from past decades and centuries, a walk along the antique Kadikoy Street will be an unforgettable experience. The narrow sidewalk is lined on all sides by antique shops offering antiques and ancient household items. A journey along the long street will be of interest not only to art historians and antique connoisseurs, but also to ordinary people.
District Moda
Marina in Moda, Kadikoy (Moda iskelesi)
After walking through the old cozy streets of Kadikoy and its antique shops, you can go to one of the most popular streets among foreign travelers called Fashion. The townspeople also treat this place with special reverence: the indigenous population of Kadikoy love to stroll through the wide park located on this street, stroll along the embankment and enjoy the beauty of the magnificent tea gardens.
Moda District, Kadikoy, 1900
Along the street there are wonderful Istanbul cafes, interspersed with old residential buildings. By the way, having your own housing in this area is very prestigious, so the cost of square meters here cannot be called affordable.
Bar Street
Bar street in Kadikoy
Kadikoy district is distinguished by many large and small streets. One of the most famous and popular is the street of bars. There is a special atmosphere of unbridled fun here. Vibrant parties are held right in the open air. It is especially beautiful here at night, when everything around is full of colorful lights. Many tourists from Russia, coming here, draw an analogy with the old Moscow Arbat. Interestingly, representatives of a wide variety of subcultures gather on the street of bars, including rockers, metalheads and bikers. At the same time, they get along well with each other. Everyone in the city knows that those who want to have fun and not worry about their own safety should definitely go to this party in the Asian part of Istanbul.
Fish Market (Balık Pazarı)
Fish market in Kadikoy
Istanbul is a city with a huge number of markets and bazaars. One of the most popular - fish - is located in the Kadikoy region. To get there, you don’t have to be an expert on Istanbul or have the support of a guide. Just moving down the streets of the area, you can hear a distant noise that will literally increase with every step. The fish market is so noisy! There are always a lot of people on the territory of the bazaar, who come here not only for fresh fish, but also for vegetables, herbs, spices, and dried fruits. If the abundance of food suddenly makes you hungry, you can quench your hunger in one of the many cafes and restaurants located near the shopping areas. Here you can taste all kinds of fish and seafood dishes, combining them with the legendary local alcoholic drink - rakı.
Catholic Church Assumption Kilisesi
Assumption Catholic Church in Kadikoy
This French Catholic church was built in the 19th century, but who initiated the construction of the church remains unknown today. Some claim that it was built by the French, others that the church was built with the assistance of the Italian Brentano family.
The church is open to everyone.
Restaurant Koço and St. Catherine's Spring
St. Catherine's Spring in Moda
Restaurant Kocho is located in the Moda district, right next door to the small Greek Church that has been here since 1930. The source of St. Catherine was discovered by Greek fishermen in 1924. To get to the source of St. Catherine, you need to go through the Kocho restaurant inside.
Armenian Church
Armenian Church in Kadikoy
This shrine, located in the Kadikoy region, is famous for its unusual celestial interior. But it is also interesting because its territory is home to a huge number of cats of various stripes - from purebred to the most ordinary.
Fenerbahçe parkı
Fenerbahce Park in Kadikoy
This green park, full of various plants, is located on a peninsula. There is an opinion that it was previously an island, but during the Byzantine Empire it was connected by an embankment to the mainland.
Almost all sides of the park offer views of the sea - it’s a pleasure to walk, sit and drink a cup of hot tea here.
In Fenerbahçe Park there are huge trees that are more than 150 years old. And for cat lovers, this is a real haven - a huge number of cats, as well as several dogs, live in the park (with the permission of the municipality and with the support of local residents).
Cafe Romance in Fenerbahce Park
You can enjoy the smell of the sea, feed the seagulls and taste something delicious after a walk in the Romantika cafe-restaurant, located on one of the shores of the peninsula.
Cafes and restaurants Kadikoy and Moda
Walking through the Moda district, Kadikoy and Bahariye streets, you yourself may like this or that cafe - there is a wide variety of them. In every corner and on every street there are some unusual establishments. To get a general picture of where you can drink coffee or have a snack, I gave an example of several cafes.
Teahouse with sea view in Moda (Moda Çay Bahçesi)
Teahouse in the Moda district
After wandering the streets of Kadikoy and Moda, you can relax in the shade of trees overlooking the sea, drinking aromatic black Turkish tea or Turkish coffee, watching other visitors or local cats. And to make it doubly pleasant, right at the entrance they sell aromatic simit or poğaça, which will be a good addition to a hot cup of tea.
Teahouse on the map:
Ice cream maker Ali Usta (Dondurmacı Ali Usta)
Ice cream maker Ali Usta in Fashion
Located in the Kadikoy and Moda district, one of the most famous ice cream parlors, Ali Usta, is popular with locals - a queue is not uncommon. We recommend trying pistachio, almond or walnut ice cream.
Ice cream maker Ali Usta on the map:
Ekspres İnegol Köftecisi
Fast food cafe Ekspres İnegöl Köftecisi in Kadikoy
Famous both in Istanbul and Ankara, this cafe offers visitors meat dishes, or more precisely, inegöl köfte. Kofte, translated from Turkish, is a grilled or frying cutlet cooked with the addition of certain spices.
In cafes, kofte is served with fried potatoes, sauces and pickled vegetables. So this is an ideal option for those who are seriously hungry.
One serving of kofte costs 17 liras, the average bill for two is about 50 liras.
Cafe Ekspres İnegöl Köftecisi on the map:
Network of cafe-restaurants Kyrynty (Kırıntı)
Cafe Kyrynty in Fashion
It was here, in the Moda district, that the first cafe-restaurant of Kyrynty opened in 1981, which was located on one floor with an area of 35 meters and had 8 tables for visitors. The idea to open such a cafe, which later became one of a whole network of famous ones in Istanbul, came to the mind of Fuat Eşref Erdoğan, born in 1956.
In 1988, the cafe began providing catering services; on February 14, 1999, the cafe opened on the famous Bagdat Caddesi on the Asian side of Istanbul, and in 2000 on the European side.
The cuisine of the network of these cafe-restaurants resembles the menu of American catering establishments, where every visitor can find a dish to suit his taste: various types of meat, spaghetti, doner, a variety of salads and desserts.
The Kyrynty chain is very popular among Istanbul residents, and this says a lot - Turks are very scrupulous when it comes to food.
Cafe Kyrynty on the map:
Cafe Dört Kadıköy
Cafe Dört Kadikoy on the map:
Juliet Rooms & Kitchen
Hostel and cafe Juliet Rooms & Kitchen
Located closer to Bahariye Street, this cafe surrounded by trees is an excellent option for a calm and leisurely conversation over a cup of tea or even a hearty breakfast. The street where the cafe is located is quite quiet, away from busy highways.
There is a hostel on the top floor.
The average bill for two is 65-70 Turkish lira.
Cafe Juliet Rooms & Kitchen on the map:
Munchies Crepe & Pancake
Munchies Crepe & Pancake Cafe
The sign on the wall of the cafe reads: “To hell with the diet, eat pancakes!” If you have already tried a traditional Turkish breakfast, then it’s time to try local pancakes. At Café Münichs you will find pancakes for every taste - sweet, salty, with cheese and various toppings.
Pancakes at Munchies Cafe
Breakfast 35 liras per person, pancakes 20 liras.
Cafe on the map Munchies Crepe & Pancake
My Chef Kadıkoy
Cafe My Chef in Kadikoy
One of the best European cuisine establishments in Kadikoy. The menu includes traditional Turkish dishes, as well as a large selection of foreign dishes. Popular cafe with good service, delicious food and reasonable prices.
The average bill for two persons is 110 liras including alcohol.
Cafe on the map:
Pappa cafe
Cafe Pappa in Kadikoy
You can immerse yourself in the atmosphere of a bygone era while chatting over a cup of coffee at the Pappa cafe. The feeling of a last century apartment and handmade sweets will not leave you indifferent.
The cafe is located on a small street, so here you can easily isolate yourself from the bustle.
The average bill is 35 liras per person.
Cafe Pappa on the map:
Kadikoy Hotels
In the Kadikoy area you can find good hotel options. Of course, there is not as much choice here as on the European side, however, I have given several examples of accommodation options.
The hotel is located on a busy street in Kadikoy, so we recommend taking a walk around the area.
Kadıköy and Ayrılık çeşmesi metro stations are within walking distance.
The hotel is especially convenient for those traveling from the airport - next to the hotel there is a Havataş service bus stop, where you can go straight to the airport.
Please note that standard hotel rooms are quite small in size.
The cost of a standard room is 106 liras per day.
Kadikoy Port Hotel on the map:
Khalkedon Hotel Istanbul (***)
A small hotel located on the busy Kadikoy street. The hotel's terrace, where breakfast is served, offers magnificent views of the city and the Bosphorus. Located in close proximity to Kadikoy metro station.
The cost of a standard room is 158 liras per day.
Hotel Kalkedon on the map:
My Dora Hotel (***)
Five hundred meters from the hotel there is the Kadikoy metro station and, of course, the pier itself, from where you can take a ferry in any direction - to or to Sultanahmet.
The average cost of living is 195 liras per day.
Dora Hotel on the map:
DoubleTree by Hilton İstanbul – Moda (*****)
DoubleTree by Hilton Istanbul Moda
Kadikoy metro station and marina are within walking distance. Excellent hotel with quality service. It is worth special mentioning the view of some of the rooms on the Bosphorus - in the evening, it is a mesmerizing sight. After leaving the hotel, you can stroll along the nearby embankment or walk along Kadikoy and Moda streets.
Accommodation costs from 399 liras per night.
Hilton Hotel on the map:
Holiday Inn Istanbul – Kadikoy (***)
Holiday Inn Istanbul Kadikoy
The nearest metro station is Acıbadem (700 meters). Hospitable, comfortable hotel. It is worth considering that there is nowhere to walk around the hotel; you will have to take the metro or taxi to get to the Kadikoy embankment.
Accommodation costs from 195 liras per day.
Holiday Inn on the map.
