Sometimes it happens that the creations of human hands turn into natural monuments. You don’t need to travel far to find an example - just about 70 kilometers from St. Petersburg, in the Dontso tract.
The Kurlevsky quarry, on the site of which one of the most beautiful lakes in the Leningrad region was formed, arose as a result of the industrial extraction of limestone (drywall) for construction needs.
Many pure springs, giving rise to the famous Oredezh River, filled the workings, giving people an amazing reservoir with sea-green water. Clay mud from the bottom of this lake has healing properties, and the surrounding vegetation is saturated with representatives of the flora of alvars - meadows on thin (usually no thicker than 30 cm) soil on top of limestone.
The alvars are figuratively called “northern steppes”, since they contain a number of steppe species of southern, southwestern and southeastern origin. By the way, the underwater vegetation in the lake is also diverse and provides a decent amount of fish. The Dontso tract has the status of a protected area.
During the times of Veliky Novgorod, these lands were part of the Vodskaya Pyatina. Under the Swedish conquerors, a Finnish population appeared here, and later Estonian settlers moved here and founded many farms and villages.
The waters of Oredezh, according to one version, which takes its name from the Finnish “galloping horse” and has a length of 201 km, carry a millionth of radium. According to residents, the river rejuvenates the body and cures skin diseases. Cold spring water promotes the reproduction of valuable fish species such as trout and grayling.
With the founding of St. Petersburg (1703), the territory of Upper Oredezh acquired new owners. The Saar manor (Tsarskoe Selo) is given to Catherine I, the village of Khotchino (Gatchina) is given to Peter I's sister Natalya Alekseevna, and Greznevsky Posad (Rozhdestveno) is given to the heir to the throne, Tsarevich Alexei.
In 1730, Empress Anna Ioannovna, on the day of her coronation, granted the architect Domenico Trezzini a patrimony for his services - the Maloe Zarechye estate in Rozhdestvensky district of the St. Petersburg province, so the architect became a Russian landowner and hereditary nobleman. The famous architect died in 1734 and was buried in the cemetery near the Sampson Church in St. Petersburg, which he built for Emperor Peter I in honor of his victory over the Swedes in the Battle of Poltava.
Subsequently, the tract at the source of the Oredezh became the favorite vacation spot of Alexander III, where he hunted forest animals and enthusiastically fished. The imperial hunting house, unfortunately, has not survived, but in the villages you can still find the descendants of the royal huntsman Yakovlev, nicknamed “Bibka”.
The surrounding settlements, Elizavetino, Kikerino, Glumitsy, Kurkovitsy, Kalitino, Fifth Mountain, Bolshoye Zarechye are ancient villages. The first mentions of local settlements are found in the scribe's salary books of 1499. Their surroundings are replete with ancient burial grounds, and the territory of the Volosovsky district, which takes its name from the words “Veles”, “to magic”, still remains one of the most mysterious and unexplored archaeologically.
Unlike the other villages listed above, Bolshoi Zarechye, often called “Leningrad Khatyn,” does not exist today. Only a few chimneys, forming part of the memorial complex, stand in a field near the road.
According to the official version, the Nazis burned the village in 1943 along with the residents for their collaboration with the partisans. There are also those who claim the opposite: by refusing to feed the partisans, the Lutheran and Old Believer population (crosses in the local cemetery) incurred the wrath of the Soviet authorities.
Before the war, in these places, even in villages with Russian names, the Estonian population dominated. So in the village of Pyataya Gora, for every two Russian families there were thirteen Estonian ones.
Third version: residents of Bolshoy Zarechye fled to neighboring Glumitsy, where some of them were destroyed, probably as a result of a battle between partisans and Germans. There were 180 households in Bolshoy Zarechye.
To get from St. Petersburg to the sources of Oredezh, you need to go after Gatchina along the Volosovskoe highway to Kikerino, turn to Kurkovitsy, after them (turn left) pass Khlopovitsy, at the intersection near the village.
Lakes turn right. And here they are (on the left) the shores of Lake Dontso. Then we drive or pass through the village of Dontso of the same name, standing on an elevated bank, and there we go out to a bridge across one of the source streams of the famous and mysterious river.
Dmitry Vernidub
There are a large number of interesting places on the territory of Russia, which leave a lot of strong impressions. One of these is Lake Dontso. It is an artificial reservoir formed on the site of the Kurlevsky quarries. Limestone was once mined here. Abandoned quarries eventually flooded the springs of the Oredezh River. Now the lake is one of the most popular vacation spots for residents of the surrounding areas and St. Petersburg.
Lake Dontso: description, photo and video
Since 1976, Lake Dontso in the Leningrad region and the surrounding areas have received the status of a natural monument. This was done to protect underground sources of rare artesian waters and local flora and fauna. Thus, the upper reaches of the Oredezh River is the only place in the region where river trout still lives.
Rare species of steppe plants also grow in the surrounding meadows. 4 of them are listed in the all-Russian Red Book, and another 28 are protected within the Leningrad region. Among them are sage whorled, autumn colchicum and lady's slipper. The richness of the local nature is due to the thin calcareous soil, which is not found anywhere else in the Leningrad region.
Birds of the local fauna are also subject to protection - corncrake, short-eared owl, quail and gray partridge. The total area of the protected area is 950 hectares. There are several reservoirs located here. The largest of them is Lake Dontso. It occupies only 700 square meters and has a shallow depth of up to 4 meters.
Panorama of Lake Dontso
The modest size of the lake is compensated by crystal clear water with an azure tint, the same as on. The banks of the reservoir are covered with snow-white sand, creating the effect of a natural frame. Lake Dontso even looks beautiful in the photo. The lake is fed by springs and springs gushing from the bottom. However, in the summer the water warms up quite well, so the reservoir is excellent for swimming. The only negative is the difficult approach. You have to get there on clay.
Where is Lake Dontso
As already mentioned, the Kurlevsky quarries are concentrated in the Leningrad region, or more precisely, in the Volosovsky district. The lake belongs to the Narva river basin. This river flows on the border of the Russian Federation and Estonia. The Oredezh River, which has a length of 192 kilometers, originates from here. Near the lake there are two villages - Pyataya Gora and Dontso. Today almost no one lives there.
Lake Dontso on the map
Coordinates of Lake Dontso on the map:
- Latitude – 59°42′53′′
- Longitude – 29°77′18′′
Distance from Lake Dontso:
- from St. Petersburg – 80 kilometers;
- from Gatchina – 45 kilometers;
- from Pushkin - 78 kilometers.
How to get to Lake Dontso
The infrastructure in the Volosovsky district is not very developed, so it is almost impossible to get here by public transport. Some tourists claim that sometimes there is a bus, and you can also get there by diesel locomotive. This information is not accurate and should not be relied upon. The best way to visit protected areas is by car.
Lake Dontso – how to get there by car:
- the most optimal way is to enter the coordinates of the place into the navigator;
- when leaving St. Petersburg, you need to follow the road in a southwestern direction;
- having reached Gatchina, you should turn towards Elizavetino;
- Behind this settlement there will be the village of Pyataya Gora nearby;
- From here to the quarries the path lies along a dirt road.
Alternatively, you can go through the Kyiv highway. Having reached the village of Vyra, you need to turn right. Next, after passing Zamosc and the bridge over Oredezh, you need to turn towards the lake.
When is the best time to visit Lake Dontso
The climate in this part of the Leningrad region is Atlantic-continental. Winters are quite mild and snowy. The average temperature is minus 11 degrees. At this time, Oredezh and the lake freeze. Given the specifics of the road, getting here at this time is even more difficult. After all, Donzo is about summer vacation.
Summer in the region is warm, but sometimes it can be too hot or too cool. There will also be quite a lot of precipitation. In spring, due to clay, the approach to water is difficult. In summer it dries out and there are no special problems. On weekends there are often a lot of tourists here. For the most comfortable stay, it is better to come on weekdays.
Peculiarities
When going to Lake Dontso, you need to remember that this is a natural monument, and not an organized recreation area. There is no paved highway leading to it, and there are no recreation centers or cafes in the surrounding area. Although, recently, the surrounding areas have been actively developed. A dirt road can create significant difficulties. It is better to check the weather forecast in advance and avoid rainy days. Without an SUV, coping with the mud will be problematic.
There is no access to the reservoir, so vehicles will have to be left 20-30 meters away. Wood cutting and fishing are prohibited in the protected area. Although, unofficially, they do both traditional and underwater fishing here. But you can pick berries. Also, you can't litter here. Although many tourists forget about this and leave behind piles of garbage. Thus, many sandy areas of the coast are fairly polluted.
The coastal area of the reservoir is quite large, so you can put up a tent here without any problems. Be sure to take enough water and food with you. In summer, do not wear sunglasses or a hat. If you plan to explore the surrounding areas, then you also cannot do without comfortable shoes.
What to see in the area
In the village of Pyataya Gora there are the remains of the Holy Trinity Church. They are the only mention of a luxurious manor located here in the 19th century. It originally belonged to Jacob Bruce, an associate of Peter the Great. Little is known about the history of these places. According to assumptions, at the beginning of the 19th century, Senator Fyodor Briskorn lived here with his family. After his death, a church was built over the tomb. The building project was developed by I. Starov.
Another reminder of past years is the village of Bolshoye Zarechye. At the end of 1943, the Germans burned it and some of its inhabitants. All that remained of the settlement were stone ovens and foundations. In 1971, a monument of memory and sorrow was erected here. Before the war, there were 180 houses on the territory of the village.
In the village of Kurkovitsy there is an abandoned Bogoroditsky Pyatogorsky Monastery. It was founded in 1884. The monastery belonged to the St. Petersburg diocese and was considered one of the closed, poor and sparsely populated. On its territory there was a dairy house and a stable. Only 2 temples have survived to this day. The monastery is currently being restored.
For its white sands and azure water, it is often called the “St. Petersburg Seychelles,” or its own. It is great for a family holiday. Clean air, slightly cool water, beautiful surrounding nature and distance from the bustle of the city. All this awaits guests of the Kurlevsky quarries.
Route thread: Dontso – Volosovo – Izvara – Kalitino – Dontso – 80 km.
We liked the Volosovsky district even in winter, when we made our way through the freshly fallen snow through the forest to the village of Pyataya Gora to admire the picturesque ruins of the Trinity Church preserved there.
Then, in the spring, we went to the unusually beautiful village of Khotnezha and the village of Torosovo, where the ruins of Baron Wrangel’s estate still stand.
Now it was decided to go there with bicycles. Since the weather that day pleased us with sunshine, we chose Lake Dontso as a starting point, about which we had read a lot of interesting things. The lake acquired its current shape as a result of limestone mining and has the lesser known name Kurlevsky quarry. The lake is unusually clean and turquoise, so it seems that you are not in the Leningrad Region, but on some tropical island. 
Radon comes to the surface of the water here and the Oredezh River originates from here. The quarry is surrounded by densely overgrown vegetation, which those knowledgeable in this matter call alvars. 
So, having landed on the shore of the lake and planning to have dinner on its shore upon our return, we set off. We didn’t have a pre-planned route, so we spontaneously decided to go to Volosovo and explore the regional center. We drove along the road; it’s good that the traffic in these parts is not very intense. Along the way, we admired the lush fields and meadows stretching on both sides of the road and here and there abandoned wooden and stone houses. 
Having made a short trip to the previously known Fifth Mountain, 
Having passed by the villages of Kholopovitsy and Kurkovitsy, we drove out onto the Gatchina highway. The traffic there is more intense, so the ride is less pleasant. But after 10 km. We have already been to Volosovo. The town is small, with a population of just over 12,000 people. He seemed pleasant and neat to me. Driving along the main street named after Vingissar (who is unknown), we noticed many shops, a recreation center and even a fountain. We decided to have a snack in Veles Park.
Having refreshed ourselves and feeling strong, we decided to continue our journey to the village of Izvara, where the Roerich museum-estate is located. It is 12 km from Volosovo. The road again runs along picturesque fields and has minimal traffic. Not far from Izvara, from the road you can see a cemetery and the ruins of a church towering above it, and at the very entrance the pipes of an abandoned lime factory stick out ugly. The estate itself was purchased by the Roerich family in 1872, and 26 years of the artist’s life are associated with it. Now it has been restored, and the old interior has been recreated inside. In several rooms there are reproductions of paintings and ancient jewelry and household items found during excavations are displayed. Stone outbuildings and a park have been preserved on the territory. 
Having absorbed the peaceful atmosphere of Izvara, on the way back we turned to the factory I already mentioned - a rather gloomy place. It turned out that the negative energy here is not simple: during the German occupation there was a concentration camp on its territory, and the ovens were used to burn corpses... Since 1980. the plant is not functioning. 
Further, having again passed through Volosovo, we decided to change the route a little and turned off the Gatchina highway following the sign for the village of Kalitino. I read that in this village there is also someone’s estate, but we were already pretty tired, so we only visited the grocery store.
After Kalitino, we drove along the asphalt road for some time, and then turned onto a country road, which led us to the village of Selo, the closest settlement to Lake Dontso.
Having returned safely, we decided to plunge into the cold waters of the quarry (we couldn’t miss such a chance) and began cooking. 
Meanwhile, the sun began to set towards the horizon. We didn’t want to leave, but we knew that we would come back here again.
So, the task was set to be serious - to have time in one day to get to two beautiful places in completely different places, using public transport, and for this we left by train at 9.52, going from the Baltic station to Gatchina, and from there we went by bus 11.06 to Glumice. We need to save time, and this is the shortest way to Lake Dontso, which, although beautiful, is not so easy to get there. From Glumice to the lake it is only 5 kilometers on foot, which will take only an hour. There are three other paths (via Kikerino, Fifth Mountain and Lakes), which we also took, but they are all longer. Near Glumice (where we arrived at 12.15) we are greeted by a grain field with ears of grain. 
An asphalt road leads to Donzo from here. 
We don't really like walking on the highway, but such a road is a joy. The fact is that where the fields have not been developed, the most picturesque flower meadows have been preserved. In July they are at the peak of their beauty.
Steppe in the middle of the Leningrad region. This is what it is, Volosovsky district.
At Lake Dontso the meadows continue, and there are even more flowers on them. They even have a special name - alvars, and they are protected by the state. This is a unique natural area for the Leningrad region. The fact is that on the Izhora Upland the soil consists of limestone, so it is arid, poor in water and nutrients. There are few trees here, but a lot of sun. Therefore, steppe landscapes formed here, with plants that are not typical for our area.
First we go not to the lake, but to look at the source of the Oredezh River, which begins right from Lake Dontso. The water of Oredezh here is clear and clean, spring water.
It is easy to notice that the riverbed is straight and clearly artificial. As I read, Oredezh originally began a couple of hundred meters downstream of the modern riverbed. And then here in the lake they began to mine drywall - white clay, from which lime was extracted, a raw material for the manufacture of building materials. They tried to drain water from the lake and surrounding swamps through a specially dug canal to the source of the Oredezh. Thus, Oredezh became longer. But this did not help much - water from underground filled the lake again and again, and after some time the extraction of drywall had to be stopped.
Let's take a closer look at this point. There is an opinion that the lake is artificial, that there was nothing here before, and the water appeared after the quarry developers accidentally broke through the aquifers, reaching artesian springs. Some local historians from the “regional nauts” community write such things. However, this is a misconception. The name of the village “Ozera” and old maps speak about it. Here, for example, is one of the cards. Compiled by the Swedes in 1678. In place of Lake Dontso there are two lakes. This surprisingly coincides with what we have now - next to Donzo there is another quarry, and behind it another smaller one. Hence the conclusion that the lakes that were quarries were also lakes before; raw materials were extracted from already existing lakes, trying to drain them, or maybe directly from the water. And when they write that the lake is artificial, it is simply stupidity and ignorance of the facts.
Next we go to the lake itself, to the beach. There are many flowers everywhere. Beauty!
It is best to approach the lake from the side that is away from the road, there are almost no people here, it is quiet and beautiful. One of the approaches to the lake looks like this.
We go to where there is a large hill next to the lake, from which there are beautiful views, and the approach to the water underneath is wider, and there are a lot of flowers
View from the top of the hill. Landscape typical for the Volosovsky region. Lots of bright colors...
I would like to lie down here and lie there all day...
Everything is in flowers. But in June and August this is no longer the case. If you want to see these places at the peak of their beauty, come in July!
View from the top of the hill to the lake. The water in it is very clean and transparent. That's why its color is turquoise.
Our tourists enjoy swimming. But the water is much colder than in other lakes in the region. But it’s so clean and transparent, and the snow-white limestone bottom - how can you resist?)
And the author of these lines is bathing. All the pebbles and soil particles are visible at the bottom. Fabulously beautiful!
I don’t know how much the lake’s appearance was distorted during lime mining here, but I think the changes were only beneficial. Most likely, the silt and swampy sediments were removed, the lake became cleaner and more flowing, and therefore it came to us twice as beautiful as it was originally.
Then we went for 10 minutes to the beach near the road. We took the plunge here too, but in general, after the first place, it was uncomfortable here. And it’s not just the abundance of people and a couple of dozen cars on the grass by the lake, but also the fact that, as always, there were crowds of people stinking of kebabs on lighter fluid, trash scattered - in general, familiar manifestations of domestic bestiality. Therefore, after taking a dip once, we went to another, no less beautiful place.
We leave at 16.45, because in two hours there is a bus that we would like to catch, and the walk is 7.5 kilometers. Along the way, between the villages of Selo and Ozera, to the left of the road, a group of small mounds is visible. These are ancient burial places of tribes that lived here 800 years ago, most likely Finnish (Izhora or Vod).
We take a break along the way so that our leg muscles can rest. I learned this clearing well over the past years, when we walked here along the road from Dylitsy to Dontso, going through Lakes and Selo, and it is along this path that we now go to Dylitsy, to the bus. There are a lot of pine trees around, it’s dry and light, so it’s nice to relax.
We arrived in Dylitsy, a village on the outskirts of the large village of Elizavetino. This is the Gatchina region. We are waiting for the bus towards Gatchina, it will arrive at 18.52. Some of us will go home, and the most persistent ones - these are the majority - will go on a hike to the Gatchina “geysers”, another local attraction.
In order to get to them, we get off at the “Chernovsky crossing” stop. There is no crossing there, but only a path across the railway leading towards Chernovo. I haven’t taken this road to the “geysers” yet, because usually the path to them lies through the village of Korpikovo, but it’s not on our way, and besides, it’s more interesting to explore a new road. And she also goes through the forest, in general, there are only advantages.
We meet already ripe strawberries. This year it is a month later than usual.
To get to the “geysers” you have to ford the Paritsa River. This turned out to be more difficult than I thought. The level in the river has risen; before it was twice as shallow. And the water also turned out to be icy.
Here is the first, most beautiful and tall “geyser”. Tourists start taking pictures with him.
“Geysers” are also surrounded by myths. Since the object is popular, and people often write about it everywhere, it acquires a variety of details. Let me just say that in fact this is artesian water from underground sources, gushing from the depths due to the high pressure that exists underground. Oil also gushes out like a fountain if you drill a well. There are similar outlets of artesian water in other places in our region, where a well was drilled, but they forgot or did not want to close it. So these are, of course, not “geysers”, but fountains that appeared due to human fault, and flow due to natural forces.
Here is the second fountain. You have to walk to it through a muddy forest road.
The path again leads to the Paritsa River. A beautiful river, transparent and clean.
Here is one of the wells that has retained its original appearance. On top is a metal column that could be used to supply water to surrounding villages or the city of Gatchina. This is what the wells were made for. The columns had to cover them, and, if necessary, allow water to be released from them. But, apparently, they were simply stolen and sold for metal, and the precious artesian water is pushed out from great depths due to earthly pressure.
Third fountain. Depending on the time of year, as well as on some other unpredictable reasons, the height of each of the “geysers” constantly fluctuates. There were years when the first almost dried up, and the third hit with all its might. And now it’s exactly the opposite.
We go to the bus stop in Korpikovo. We got into a big break, the bus left at 20.50, now we have to wait at 22.08. This is bad, because from the last bus you can only get on the last train at 22.54, and you can’t get on the 22.05 from Gatchina Varshavskaya or 22.00 from Gatchina Baltiyskaya. Therefore, I suggested that the guys catch rides or taxis so that they could be taken there earlier. That's what everyone did. There were only five of us left - those who were not in a particular hurry, who were willing to leave even by the last train - and we waited for the bus, which took us safely to Gatchina, and then boarded the last Luga train, arriving at the Baltic station at 23.45. 
15 km from St. Petersburg, in the Vsevolozhsk region. Along the Murmansk highway until the first turn after the Lukoil gas station. From the Dybenko metro station, minibuses No. 469, 511, 565 and 579 (stop - 26th kilometer).
Important point: toilets on the lake are free. But to access the water by car you will have to pay 200 rubles.
2 Pike Lake
Not far from Zelenogorsk, 30 km from the border with St. Petersburg. Take the train from the Udelnaya metro station or from the Finlyandsky station to the Komarovo station and walk another 4 km along Ozernaya Street.
Pike Lake is shallow, the water warms up quickly. The shores are sandy and peaty, and the bottom is muddy. There is a volleyball court, you can rent a boat or jet ski.
3 White Lake
There is an unofficial swimming area in Palace Park, one of the main attractions of Gatchina. If you choose a place near the pier, it is deep, but not the most convenient entry into the water.
The boat station is located on the northwestern shore of the reservoir.
4 Duderhof Lake
One of the cleanest reservoirs in the Leningrad region is not far from the town of Krasnoe Selo. By car you need to travel just a kilometer to the south, and by public transport - from the Kirovsky Zavod metro station on minibuses No. 546 and 484.
Swimming in this lake is good for your health; for those who want to improve their health, there are mud baths (no joke!). Refreshments are available at the beach bar.
5 Quarries in the village of Shapki
Not to say it’s close, but the water is amazing, plus the sand on the shore. Drive to Tosno, then turn onto the bridge over the railway road and drive another 18 km.
By train from Moskovsky station to Tosno, and then by bus number 330.
It’s worth warning right away that there is no developed infrastructure in the territory of the former sand quarries.
6 Shinkarka River
It flows into a picturesque pond with limestone banks. The water in this small reservoir is very cold (even on the hottest days) and clean. Extreme sports enthusiasts can take a dip not only in the pond itself, but also in the Shinkara mini-waterfalls.
The river feeds the Peterhof fountains and is located in the village of Nizino, Lomonosov district. The straight line distance is 27 km. You can get here by minibus K-639B from the Prospekt Veteranov metro station. Keep in mind - there is no infrastructure here.
7 Lake Razdolinskoye
It’s a bit far, almost 80 km from St. Petersburg, if you take the train from Finlyandsky Station in the Sosnovsky direction. The shores are covered with sand and pebbles, and the beaches are equipped with everything necessary for swimming - changing cabins, bridges for descending into the water. There are many recreation centers and children's camps here.
Water visibility reaches three meters. There are islands in the center of the lake. You can get to them by renting a boat.
8 Lake Dontso
And it’s not close - the artificial lake Dontso is 80 km southwest of St. Petersburg, in the Volosovsky district. This is the largest of the Kurlev quarries. By car you need to go through Gatchina and Elizavetino, and then find the village of Pyataya Gora. And from there you get to the quarry. Public transport does not go here.
Pros: snow-white sand, aquamarine color of water (due to blue clays at the bottom), and with such happiness there are only a few people! Those more inclined to civilization can find a cottage on the beach.
9 Toksovo
There is a large choice of reservoirs here, but many approaches to the water are located behind the fences of rich dachas. Another disadvantage, of course, is traffic jams in Novy Devyatkino. The larger lakes are Verojärvi, Khepojärvi, and Kurgulovskoye.
33 km from St. Petersburg, near the village of Toksovo. You can get by train from the Devyatkino railway station to Kavgolovo or Toksovo stations. Not far on foot.
