Types of descending devices in mountaineering. Mountain training

Descender - equipment for rappelling that provides height regulation and stabilization of the climber's position. Used in industrial mountaineering, for high-altitude work, speleology and tourism.

Materials and design

Devices for safe descent are made of light metal alloys with anti-corrosion treatment. The materials can withstand high loads, including sudden impacts, temperature changes, exposure to mineralization, precipitation and other climatic factors. Production is carried out primarily by milling or casting, which ensures the integrity and accuracy of the structures.

Depending on the manufacturer, purpose or modification, trigger devices may have different functions:

locking/unlocking the mechanism manually at the right time;
safety latch - prevents loss of the device;
fixing the climber’s position at any point;
“anti-panic” function, triggered when the handle is pressed hard;
stopper - error protection, preventing accidents at height;
selection of rope tension using a rotary eccentric.

The design and materials of release mechanisms must ensure safety and comply with the current standard EN 341 “Personal fall protection equipment”.

Advantages of equipment

Our online store offers high-quality descenders. The principle of operation of the mechanisms is based on the creation of additional friction when the rope moves through the elements of the device.

Advantages

suitable for belaying, rappelling, positioning;
manual and automatic mode of rope release;
symmetry, comfortable for left and right hands;
provide reliable fixation on weight;
provide effective dynamic braking;
easy placement of rope or rope.

You can order descenders online or by phone. Delivery is carried out to all cities of Russia.

For many centuries, people have climbed peaks and overcome passes for military, religious, trade and scientific purposes. Starting from the 18th century, mountaineering in Europe began to develop as a sport, and methods of belaying and rappelling using ropes began to be developed. The simplest methods of braking a rope for belay were: through a rocky ledge with a loop of rope and carabiner, in the snow - through the lower back, with an ice ax. But such methods were not suitable for steep and steep slopes. And for descending steep and difficult sections, a different method of descent was used: the rope was wrapped around the body or tucked into a carabiner, thereby increasing its friction, thanks to which it was possible to descend in a controlled manner.

In 1912, the German climber Hans Dülfer first used the method of rappelling, sitting on it without special descending devices. This method made it possible to descend much faster than descending by belaying through the terrain, but it also caused discomfort and required constant monitoring. Therefore, in the USSR they always secured themselves with a grasping knot (Prusik, Marshara, etc.). Nowadays, rappelling is a descent along a fixed rope using belay devices.

Depending on how the rope is positioned on the person’s body, the braking will be appropriate:

a - descent using a sports gymnastic method (on moderately steep slopes);
b - descent on steep slopes with safety net;
c - descent with braking, using the Dulfer method (through the hip) with safety net using a gripping knot.

To assemble such a system, it is advisable to use carabiners of the same shape; the latches of the carabiners should face in different directions.

Pros:

collected from improvised means;
you can work on single and double rope;
does not twist the rope;
works with ropes of different diameters;
can be locked and unlocked quite easily
load by one person.

Minuses:

such a structure, especially one assembled with a hammer or ice ax, requires constant monitoring;
takes a long time to assemble and disassemble;
works only in one direction - downhill.

UIAA node (UIAA)

One of the ways to tie a UIAA knot is shown:

The UIAA knot is the simplest, most reliable means of descending and belaying.

Pros:

to use it you need a minimum of equipment (safety system, carbine, preferably HMS, since it was designed for this unit, and a rope);
works on ropes of any diameter;
quickly and easily assembles and disassembles;
Easily locked and unlocked under load when stopping the descent is necessary. To block the UIAA, the Munter-mula knot is used - it allows you to untie it under load without jerking;
works in both directions - if necessary, switch from descent to ascent
no additional manipulations are required: the unit can be easily turned over and
moves to the top rope position.

Minuses:

The rope and carabiner wear out quickly. When descending on a wet rope, especially where there is a lot of sand, the carabiner “saws through” a few millimeters over a couple of rappels;
twists the rope;
For optimal operation of the unit, a large pear-shaped (HMS) carabiner with a coupling is required. On carabiners of other shapes, the knot works worse;
When lowering, the carabiner heats up, which can lead to melting of the rope.

Belay devices

Most incidents in the mountains occur not during the assault, but on the descent. Climbers lost their comrades in simple, banal situations. This was the impetus for the creation of descending devices.

With the introduction of synthetic climbing ropes, devices were invented that combined the methods and functions of belay and descending devices, called “belay devices” (belay and rappel devices).

A belay device is a structure secured with the help of connecting elements (carabiners) to a belay system or terrain (at a station), through which a safety rope passes, going from the belayer to the leader. Also, as mentioned above, these devices are also used for rappelling. In this regard, they are often called “trigger devices”, “triggers”. It must be remembered that descenders designed only for rappelling (for example, “figure eight”) cannot be used for belaying.

Safety devices can be divided into two large groups:

1. Devices with manual rope blocking (EN 15151-2 “mechanical”).

In such devices, the movement of the rope is blocked due to the friction of the rope against the device and the muscular force of the hand.

2. Devices with auxiliary rope locking (EN 15151-1 “semi-automatic”).

In such devices, the primary blocking of the rope is carried out using mechanical or structural parts of the device, and then - the muscular force of the hand.

As a rule, to work with a modern belay device (with the exception of semi-automatic ones), you will need an HMS carabiner, that is, a pear-shaped one. In this case, the carabiner rod must be thick enough (about 10-12 mm) so that the bend radius of the rope is large enough, and the carabiner must be made of aluminum alloy or steel. Titanium carabiners are absolutely unsuitable for belaying due to their extremely low thermal conductivity - a carabiner heated up from friction can damage the rope.

Many designs were invented, some of which were successful but forgotten, and some of which became classics. Next we will talk about the most famous of them.

Sticht washer

The Sticht washer has two slots for working with one or two ropes. Works on ropes with a diameter of 8 to 12 mm. When working with ropes of small diameters, it holds well even on an icy rope.

This device traces its origins to a link in an ordinary marine chain (an option for such a brake is a carbine brake). Fritz Sticht proposed using a simple metal plate with slots for braking.

Photo from the VKontakte group "Mountaineer Library"

The rope is threaded into the slot with a loop into which a carabiner is snapped (or two for strong braking). Braking occurs due to the friction of the rope against the carabiner and the edge of the slot, and also depends on the angle of coverage of the Sticht Washer by the rope. In the strong braking mode (with two carabiners), the Sticht Washer exceeds the degree of braking of modern “glasses” with wedge-shaped slots, and becomes indispensable when working on thin ropes.

Cons - the rope is not fixed. When quilting the rope, you can lose the washer if you do not secure it separately. And one more thing: there are no different options for threading the rope, i.e. There is no way to increase or decrease friction without additional carabiners or other techniques. Also, after loading, the device “sticks” to the rope, which makes it difficult to release it, so over time a spring was attached to it. Later, when a safety cable was added to the design, the need for a spring was eliminated.

"Basket", "glass", Reverso

Modern options belay devices, working on the principle of the Sticht Washer, have many names in everyday life: “basket”, “glass”, “reverso”, “basket”.

Reverso (Verso version without additional rings) is one of the company’s most popular belay devices; its name has already become a household name for such devices.

Devices without moving parts

Nowadays, belay and rappel devices have begun to appear that do not have mechanical moving elements, but block the rope when loaded due to design features.

A — we give out a rope;
b — choose a rope;
V — The device self-locks, helping to stop the stall. In this case, it is necessary to load the free end of the rope coming out of trigger device. Under no circumstances should you let go of the free end of the rope!!!
G — descent with the ability to control the speed of descent.

pros

The device locks itself if it fails, which allows you to protect the person.
Very simple design.
Less weight compared to “semi-automatic” devices.

Minuses

It works with one rope, which does not allow it to be used in mountaineering.

Mammut Smart 2.0 works similarly, the pros and cons are the same.

Mammut Smart Alpine is designed for two ropes with the ability to use it in “autoblock” mode. This device is suitable for use in both rock climbing and mountaineering.

pros

Can be used in “autoblock” mode.
There are no mechanical parts, which makes operation easier.
Not subject to panic reflexes when used.

"Eight"

Figure-of-eight devices were developed for descent. Thanks to design features, such as "horns" or slots in the device itself, you can thread the rope into the device in different ways, which allows you to change the coefficient of friction.

Minuses

Not suitable for insurance, because When there is a deep stall, there is not enough friction to effectively hold it.
It is impossible to control two ropes separately, because the ropes pass together.
The rope is strongly twisted due to the presence of kinks in several planes.

Classic descender of the “lattice” type with removable crossbars. The design allows them to be easily removed and installed on the rope, adjusting the friction force depending on changing conditions (weight of the rope, user, etc.). Compact and lightweight device.

Thanks to the removable crossbars, the device can be easily installed on a rope.
Adjustable to the required load.
The device is protected from frictional heat to protect the rope.
Does not twist the rope when descending.

Semi-automatic descenders and belay devices with self-locking function

Descenders are designed to provide a controlled, smooth descent, while belay devices are designed to provide both bottom and top protection, and they also increase the safety of the belay by helping to stop a fall.

One of the first semi-automatic triggers was the Petzl Stop. It traces its history back to a descender invented for cavers by Bruno Dressler, produced and later developed by Fernand Petzel (founder of Petzl), and subsequently used in mountaineering.

The device was a steel plate bent in the middle, and two rollers fixed motionless inside. The rope tucked into the device was bent in the shape of the letter S, and the friction created in the device made it possible to control the speed of descent, as well as to stop it by simply pulling with one hand on the free end of the rope coming out of the device. It made it possible to descend along a rope (fixed at the bottom or at an intermediate point) without twisting it, which was especially important for speleologists. Wasn't afraid of dirt.

The modern version of this device already has two aluminum plates independent of each other. With a slot at the top roller and a special plastic clip in the hole for attaching the carabiner to the belay system, which allows you to open the device and quickly insert/remove the rope. Also, two fixed steel rollers can be replaced with new ones as they wear out. This significantly increases the resource of the device, because cavers almost always work with dirty and wet rope, which very quickly wears through devices, especially aluminum ones.

Today it is one of the most popular devices among speleologists. Its main structural elements are the same as the one, but it has a movable asymmetrical lower roller merged with the handle. Due to this, if you release the handle during the descent, the roller (cam) warps and presses the rope against the upper roller, thereby stopping the descent.

pros:

Doesn't twist the rope.
Replaceable rollers, which increases the service life of the device.
Descent control.
The rope is threaded without pulling the device from the belay system.
When you release the handle, it stops the descent, but it is possible to disable this mode using a carabiner.

You can use a rope clamp or grasping knot to climb up the rope.

Minuses

For sports mountaineering today it is heavy and cumbersome.
It poisons the rope (therefore, if you need to hang during the descent and let go, the free end must be blocked with a knot).

.

Also one of the first semi-automatic belay devices, created by Petzl in 1992. It was very compact and had a movable cam, which, under load (during a fall or jerk), grabbed the rope, increasing the degree of blocking until the rope completely stopped slipping.

There was a handle to unlock the device. By pressing it, throwing the outgoing rope and pressing it against a special cheek (which created additional friction), one could smoothly begin the descent. During the descent, speed control was carried out by the hand holding the free end of the rope.

Despite the automatic blocking, it was impossible to let go of the free end of the rope, i.e. A situation could arise when the cam was not blocked, and for help it was necessary to pull the free end of the rope. For example, this could happen due to high friction of the rope in the quickdraws / against the terrain / due to smooth sliding along an inclined surface.

A similar design and technique for working with the device remained on subsequent models of the device.

Important: The device requires familiarization with the instructions and practice!

pros

When jerking, they are blocked, which allows almost no effort to be made to stop the fall (a lighter belayer can comfortably belay a heavier leader).
Using this device and a rope clamp (zhumar) or grasping knot, you can very effectively climb a short distance along a rope in an unsupported space.

Minuses

It is not possible to work with two ropes.
The device is structurally susceptible to panic reflexes. They appear when, during a descent, the belayer presses the lever too hard - the speed of descent increases sharply, and the person reflexively presses the lever even harder on himself, completely removing the blockage from the device. Structurally, this was eliminated only on the latest model GRIGRI +. The panic reflex can be eliminated by using the device correctly: before starting the descent, throw the rope over the cheek, increasing the friction, and press on the handle not with the whole palm, but with several fingers.

Also, when belaying, in order to quickly release the rope and not violate the rule of constant control, the free end of the rope must be held so that the free end is in the palm of your hand, and the thumbs of your right hand must press the locking cam.

The modern GRIGRI 2 is a compact and ultra-lightweight semi-automatic device designed to work comfortably on thinner ropes, with single ropes ranging in diameter from 8.9 to 11 mm (ideal for ropes from 9.4 to 10.3 mm). Only 170g, 25% smaller and 20% lighter than the previous version of GRIGRI.

The pros and cons are the same as the previous model.

GRIGRI + is the latest version in the family of one of the most popular belay devices, which has switching between upper and lower belay and an anti-panic function, which eliminates the disadvantages of previous models.

.

Kashevnik's devices

Due to the lack of special devices for sale, enthusiasts in the USSR made handcrafted trigger devices. One of these craftsmen was Boris Lazarevich Kashevnik, the author of a number of devices for rappelling and belaying, for example, “Bukashki-3”.

A— laying one rope for belaying and rappelling; b— laying two ropes for belaying and rappelling; V— the maximum distance from the carbine to the plate body (the braking force is less); G— minimum distance from the carabiner to the plate body (the braking force is greater); d— rope fixation; e— using the device as a shock absorber.

The presence of round and oval holes allows you to change the distance from the carabiner to the plate and thereby select the optimal braking force depending on specific conditions.

Certification and marking of descenders and belay devices

In the USSR, much equipment was created handicraft. Many truly successful devices were invented, but they often led to injuries because they were made from scrap materials that had not been properly processed, and tests were often carried out by the same enthusiasts “in the field.”

For modern equipment, norms and standards have been developed that specify technical requirements for the minimum breaking load, materials used, testing methods for trigger devices, markings, and type of devices.

In Russia, descenders and belay devices are not included in the “Unified List of Products Subject to Mandatory Certification”; there are no technical regulations (standard for “SPORTS” devices), so everyone uses the European standards EN 15151-1 and EN 15151-2.

Standards EN 15151-1 and EN 15151-2

Standard EN 15151-2: Manual rope blocking devices

Type 1: for release without friction adjustment function.
Type 2: for belaying and rappelling without friction adjustment function.
Type 3: for descent with friction adjustment function.
Type 4: for belaying and rappelling with friction adjustment function.

Standard EN 15151-1: with auxiliary rope blocking

Type 5: for descent with auxiliary rope blocking (“semi-automatic”), without a blocking element in case of panic (“anti-panic”).
Type 6: for belaying and rappelling with auxiliary rope blocking (“semi-automatic”), without a blocking element in case of panic (“anti-panic”). For example, .
Type 7: for descending with a blocking element in case of panic (“anti-panic”).
Type 8: for belaying and descent with a blocking element in case of panic (“anti-panic”). For example, .

Industrial devices used in work at height or rescue operations have their own standards. The standards developed for rope access techniques for descenders are called EN 341 “Personal fall protection equipment. Descending devices" and EN12841 "Rope positioning devices". Such devices can be used as components in positioning and holding systems.

Marking

Manufacturer.
Device name.
Rope installation direction:

The working end of the rope.
The free end of the rope.

Corresponding standard.
UIAA (International Union of Mountaineering Associations) quality label.
Acceptable rope types and diameters.
Serial number: product batch number and year of manufacture (the picture shows the decoding of the Petzl company number; for each brand, the product passport indicates how the serial number is deciphered).

You must read the instructions before use.
An organization that controls production.

The sequence in which information is provided is different for each brand.

Good day. I would like to bring to your attention a review of descending devices for organizing rappelling. This review is my personal subjective opinion, formed due to considerable experience in rock climbing and working as an industrial climber.
I have three triggers at my immediate disposal, the rest I just happened to use.
The simplest and most famous figure-of-eight trigger device.

Depending on the size of the holes, it can be used on both single and double ropes with a diameter of 8 to 13 mm. In the model shown, a small hole can be used for descending thin ropes and for organizing belays.

Pros of this device:
1.Simplicity.
2.Strength.
3.Reliability.
4.No maintenance required.
5.Multi-functionality.
6.Light weight.

1. Twists the rope.
2. In some models (for example, as in the photo) there are no mustaches for fixing the rope, which in turn makes it difficult to hang on such a descender.

My favorite trigger is the petzl PIRANA. Despite its similarity to the figure eight, this device was developed by petzl specifically for canyoning, which introduced a number of good innovations into its design.

For reference: Canyoning (eng. Canyoning or Canyoneering) - overcoming canyons without the help of floating devices (boats, rafts, canoes, kayaks, etc.) using various techniques for overcoming complex water-rock terrain: rock climbing, rappelling, diving , swimming.
When passing canyons, climbing technical equipment is used: ropes, carabiners, safety harnesses, descending devices, helmets, etc.

Pros of this device:
1.Simplicity.
2.Strength.
3.Reliability.
4.No maintenance required.
5.Multi-functionality.
6.Ability to work calmly on wet, dirty, icy rope.
7. Ability to work calmly when descending with heavy weight.
8.Very easy to secure the rope to stop and equally easy to remove.
9. Light weight.

Disadvantages of this device:
1. Twists the rope.

"Basket" type descender.

A very light and convenient descender that allows you to work equally comfortably on both one and two ropes. If you have a secure attachment point for the rope, this baby will have you just flying the distance you need in a matter of seconds.
In my opinion, the most convenient device is a descender that can be used for belaying on a rocky route.

Pros of this device:
1.Simplicity.
2.Strength.
3.Reliability.
4.No maintenance required.
5.Light weight.
6. Doesn't twist the rope.
7. Very comfortable work on two ropes.
8. The ability to calmly work on a wet, dirty, icy rope.

Disadvantages of this device:
1. There is no possibility to hover (reliably hover) at the required height without using other devices.

Descender device "Lattice".

Perhaps I’m going a little overboard, but at most I’m going a little too far if I say that this is the favorite descending device of almost all speleologists. I don't really like him, but this probably has more to do with my lack of understanding of him and the fact that I am not a speleologist. A large number of my friends have been using its various modifications for many years, and from them I hear only positive feedback.

Pros of this device:
1.Simplicity.
2.Strength.
3.Reliability.
4.No maintenance required.
5. Doesn't twist the rope.
6. Very comfortable work on two ropes.
7. The ability to work calmly on a wet, dirty, icy rope.

Disadvantages of this device:
1.Dimensions.

The next device has so many popular names that I’d rather take SIMPLE, known to all speleologists.

This is the little brother, or sister, of the petzl stopper. SIMPLE is quite a convenient device for long descents on a single rope. Due to the absence of protruding elements and parts, it is very convenient in narrow places. But as for me, this is where its advantages end.

Pros of this device:
1. Does not twist the rope.

Disadvantages of this device:
1.Dimensions.
2.Weight. (not very hard, but I would like it to be easier)
3. Lack of ability to use as a belay device.
4. It is not possible to hover (reliably hover) at the required height without using other devices.
5. There is no possibility to work on a double rope.
6.Requires care.

Stopper from petzl.

One of the most popular caving descenders in the world. Allows good control over the speed of descent. Can be installed on a rope without detaching from the harness thanks to the spring clip.
The automatic braking system is activated when the handle is released.
It is possible to climb a rope without changing the position of the device using a leg loop and a jumar.

Pros of this device:
1. Does not twist the rope.
2. The ability to work calmly on a wet, dirty, icy rope.
3. The ability to hover (reliably hover) at the required height without using other devices.

Disadvantages of this device:
1.Dimensions.
2.Weight. (not very hard, but I would like it to be easier)
3. Lack of ability to use as a belay device.

5.Requires maintenance.

Automatic belay (belay) device GRIGRI 2.

May lovers of bells and whistles forgive me, but I have never understood it and never will.
Description from the manufacturer's website:
Automatic locking belay device for ropes from 8.9 to 11 mm.

The GRIGRI 2 automatic locking belay device is designed to make belaying easier. GRIGRI 2 works equally well for leader belay and top belay. The device can be used with all single dynamic ropes from 8.9 to 11 mm (ideal for ropes from 9.4 to 10.3 mm). Compact and ultra-lightweight, the GRIGRI 2 will serve you well in your climbing activities around the world for years to come. The new GRIGRI 2 design provides better control during descent.

The belay technique is identical to classic belay systems: both hands on the rope. Stopping the fall is done by holding the free end of the rope.
Blocking: While stopping the fall, the belayer holds the free end of the rope, the cam rotates and grabs the rope, increasing the degree of blocking until the rope completely stops slipping.
The new GRIGRI 2 design provides excellent control during descent. One hand holds the free end of the rope while the other hand presses the handle to release the cam. The patented handle design allows for very smooth rope pickling. Combined with the strong locking action of the cam, this provides a feeling of complete control when descending.
GRIGRI 2 is a compact and ultra-lightweight device: only 185 g (25% less and 20% lighter than the previous version of GRIGRI).
The device design includes a brake plate and a stainless steel cam to ensure long term product services.
For use with single ropes from 8.9 to 11 mm diameter (ideal for ropes from 9.4 to 10.3 mm).
Schemes for installing the device on the rope are engraved on the device (on the outer and inner sides).

And now I’ll scold this miracle of technology. Personally, I absolutely did not like working with him, although perhaps it was all a matter of habit. I felt very uncomfortable giving the rope to the leader; if I did this with even the slightest jerk, the rope would immediately be jammed.

Pros of this device:
1. Does not twist the rope.
2. The ability to hover (reliably hover) at the required height without using other devices.
3.Convenient for belaying the second person in a pair.

Disadvantages of this device:
1. Abundance of mechanics.
2. Demanding requirements for rope!!!
3.Weight.
4. It is not possible to work on a double rope.
5.Requires maintenance.

Injuries from falls from height in Europe, the USA and China are in second place after road accidents. Knowledge of the basic rules of fall protection and the ability to use appropriate protective equipment can, in many cases, avoid a fall or reduce the likelihood of injury.

(PPE) - equipment, equipment, equipment designed to prevent a worker from falling from a height or to safely stop his fall.

The main consumers of such PPE are construction organizations. But other enterprises also need these funds to carry out any high-altitude work:

when inspecting wells, tanks and other containers;
for carrying out work using industrial mountaineering methods, for cleaning companies;
during emergency rescue operations;
when servicing power lines, ventilation pipes and boiler rooms, television and radio towers, towers, bridges, etc.

According to the Labor Safety Rules when working at height (NPAOP 0.00-1.15-07), the means of protection against falls from height include:

safety belts;
helmets;
safety ropes;
safety climbing devices;
vertical rope catchers;
protective fences, safety signs, etc.;
climbing equipment used in conjunction with the above mentioned protective equipment.

Let's take a brief overview of these protections.

1. Safety belts

Not the most important part of a high-altitude climber’s equipment - you can tie yourself with a piece of rope, but it makes life a lot easier. And in case of freezing during a breakdown for more than 15 minutes - and maintaining it, preventing suffocation from occurring.

The mounting belt (Fig. 1) and the upper system (Fig. 2) can only be used to secure a person who moves along structures with his feet and, if he falls, will not hang for a long time until he dies from asphyxia. In addition, if you fall deeply while wearing a belt, there is a high risk of a spinal fracture.


TORNADO, Ukraine	PETZL, France	SINGING ROCK, Czech Republic

TRAVEL EXTREME, Ukraine	VENTO, Russia	PETZL, France

As a safety system, you can only use a gazebo (Fig. 3), preferably in combination with an upper system, so as not to break your spine in the event of a fall.


FIRST ASCENT, Ukraine	PETZL, France	TRAVEL EXTREME, Ukraine	VENTO, Russia

Or universal complete system(Fig. 4).

A completely justified element of protecting the “brains” from contact with metal structures when moving or falling on them, not to mention wrenches suddenly falling from above and other “punishments of God.”

It is better to use fiberglass-reinforced helmets, but if there is no fish, an ordinary construction “soap box” will do.

3. Safety ropes (ropes)

To work at height, two ropes are required. One is for descent or ascent, the other is for safety. Or a second worker and, part-time, a safety one. If one or the other is cut, killed or eaten, this is your ticket to the world of the living.

When working on a bend through a sharp visor, always use a rope protector, preferably a steel one - soft ones are often cut along with the rope.

There are ropes dynamic And static, various diameters (from 8 to 12 mm).

Dynamic rope— elongation more than 7% with a suspended load of 80 kg.

It is better not to use it in industrial mountaineering. It's difficult to work with - like an elastic band. The exception is when the specifics of the work require dynamic insurance.

Static rope(3-5% elongation) is used most often.

Super static rope(up to 2% elongation), made using Kevlar and steel, dangerous under any dynamic loads that often arise when working at height. Its super strength does not contribute to safety. The money that needs to be spent on purchasing such a rope can be spent on the rest of the equipment.

There is no point in using expensive ropes, which, according to the manufacturer’s idea, have a long service life due to the abrasion-resistant braid. During installation, yes, but during painting or sealing of buildings, the rope is still damaged by paint or sealant.

Remember:

The declared tensile strength is not an indicator by which the reliability of the rope can be judged. The maximum load at which the rope breaks applies only to its original condition, not subject to adverse factors (attrition, moisture, paint contamination, etc.);
the presence of knots reduces the strength of the rope to 40% of the initial one! I repeat, not by 40%, but up to 40%!
rope aging is a gradual decrease in strength, regardless of whether the rope is in use or still lying unopened in a store or warehouse. If the rope is more than five years old from the date of production, it cannot be used at all for work at height;
With normal intensity of use and careful attention to it, any rope should be thrown away after four years at most, even if it appears to be well preserved.

More details about ropes and their tests: P. Nedkov “ABC of single-rope technique”.

4. Carbines

The carabiner is an important and multifunctional tool for the industrial climber, serving as a connecting link. Not only the success of high-altitude work directly depends on it, but also the lives of the specialists themselves in the field of industrial mountaineering.

The carabiners are a bracket that is locked with a latch lock, which in turn is secured against opening by a safety clutch.

The most common type of coupling is threaded. Locking is done using a screw-on coupling. However, there is a possibility of forgetting to screw the coupling.

Therefore, sometimes an automatic rotary clutch is preferable. The advantage of such carbines is that they protect against forgetfulness or inexperience of the user.

A mandatory rule is that all carabiners that are used for belaying and securing must have a coupling. In addition, the carabiner itself must be latched so that the rope, when moving upward, does not unscrew the threaded coupling or turn the automatic coupling into a possible opening position. By the way, the opening size of the lock is an equally important parameter of carabiners.

Carabiners without a coupling are used only as a quick-draw or auxiliary carabiner.

For insurance, carabiners with a permissible load of at least 2200 kg (22 kN) in the longitudinal direction with the clutch closed can be used. This is sufficient for belaying, but more powerful carabiners are required where the permissible working loads can reach large values, for example when lifting loads.

The transverse fracture loads of carabiners are usually much less than the longitudinal load, but not less than 7 kN. Therefore, it is very dangerous when a carabiner stands on a bend or across a device, such as a trigger or safety device.

To avoid this, some manufacturers deliberately make a hole for a carabiner with a diameter of 12-14 mm, which is smaller than the diameter of most carabiner couplings of almost all brands: Black Diamond (USA); Climbing Technology (Italy); CAMP (Italy); Kong (Italy); Petzl (France); Mammut (Switzerland); Salewa (Germany); Simond (France); Singing Rock (Czech Republic); Vertical (Russia); Manaraga (Russia); Vento (Russia); Ring (Russia); Krok (Ukraine).

But we must remember that foreign analogues are several times, or even tens of times, more expensive than domestic PPE. This applies not only to carbines, but also to other equipment for high-altitude work.

Carabiners are made of steel or aluminum alloys. Duralumin carbines are much lighter in weight, but their strength is also much lower. Therefore, when performing high-altitude work using the industrial mountaineering method, mainly steel carabiners are used, since they are much less subject to wear and can withstand heavy loads.

In terms of external shape, there are a whole lot of varieties of carbines - trapezoidal, oval, triangular, pear-shaped, delta-shaped. The trapezoid holds the maximum load, while the oval and pear are more convenient.

Oval. Due to the symmetry along the longitudinal axis, it has the least chance of getting stuck in the device or at the snapping point across the load or at a break.

Trapezoidal. These carbines are the most tensile. But they cannot always be used with certain types of belay devices. It is not advisable to use with sling and tape.


KROK, Ukraine	RING, Russia	VENTO, Russia	PETZL, France

Triangular. They came to us from history.

Pear or "HMS". A carabiner with the largest opening of the latch.


VENTO, Russia	SINGING ROCK, Czech Republic	PETZL, France

Mounting carabiners. They have maximum ease of opening the safety lock, so they are convenient for working with canvas gloves.


KROK, Ukraine	VENTO, Russia			PETZL, France

Rapids. Carabiners that do not have a latch. Locking occurs due to a threaded coupling. They are used to organize stationary safety links and for auxiliary purposes (for example, fastening structures).

D-Rings and Delta. They are used in cases where you need to use a carabiner with a sling or tape. For example, in systems. The working load is transverse.


KONG, Italy	MAILLON RAPIDE, France

Carabiners for pipes and beams. Safety carabiners for organizing movement along a large diameter pipe, beam or cable.

5. Descenders (SU)

Are divided into manual And automatic.

IN hand-held devices the coefficient of friction (i.e. the speed of descent and the braking force) depends on how the rope is threaded into the descender and with what force the person pulls the rope below the descender.


Eight	Invar two-horned	Pirana


Lattice	Basket	Spider	Crab

Automatic descenders have a mechanism that allows you to change the coefficient of friction (i.e., descent speed and braking force) by acting on the device itself. To put it simply, to start moving, you pull or push on the handle and adjust the speed of descent. However, in this case, control over the rope below the device is not canceled, since if it is lost, an avalanche-like increase in the speed of descent may begin, and the panic effect will not allow you to release the control handle and stop. For this purpose, control systems with an anti-panic control are being developed, which, when panicky pressure is applied to the handle of the control system, stops the fall.


Stopor-Desanter	Cinch	Grigri	Grisha


I'D	Anti-panic	Paratrooper with anti-panic

The most successful, in my opinion, are the I’D PETZL and the Paratrooper with KROK anti-panic.

6. Clamps

In general, a clamp is a technical device that moves freely along the rope, but when loaded, automatically jams on it. Alas, as a rule, with a load in one direction. Attached to a lanyard (up to 60 cm long), which in turn is attached to your system.

There are clamps bending, jamming And mixed(overbending-jamming) types.

Clamp body - open or closed.


Open	Closed

bending type - practically not used.

Jamming- These are zhumars and their varieties. The needle cam is pressed against the rope by a spring.

Bending-jamming type - these are clamps that use a hinged lever instead of a cam. Or the lever is the clamp body and the movable cam.

From two clamps and a stirrup consists of a rope climbing kit. If an automatic device is used as a release device, then it itself can play the role of one of the clamps.

But the use of clips for self-belaying is a topic for a separate discussion. There are many opinions, but everyone agrees on the main thing: when using clips for self-belaying, it is necessary to minimize the jerk factor. In other words, do not allow the clamp to be below the point where the person being insured is located. Since the vast majority of clamps “remove” the braid of modern ropes with a load of just over 400 kgf. The rest simply snack on it or burn it out when they fall, already with factor 1.

One of the few devices allowed for use as a means of self-insurance is the three-jaw Drop and its foreign analogue - the Back-up clamp, as well as the ASAP PETZL clamp.

7. Loops

Rope, tape and cable.

Necessary for organizing points for securing ropes and additional points of self-belaying, as well as for auxiliary purposes. You can make loops from a piece of rope or a full-fledged sling (at least 22 kN tensile strength).

It’s even easier - just buy ready-made loops. Perhaps the most commonly used lengths are 60 cm and 120 cm.

8. Seat

The seat is a matter of convenience and nothing more, it should in no way be a matter of safety.


KROK, Ukraine	VENTO, Russia		PETZL, France

The bulk of the seats used can be divided into two conventional types - short seats and long ones.

For a long seat, the lines are fastened far enough to the board so as not to cut into the sides.

9. Lifting kit

The simplest one is carabiner with block(with a block roller) and preferably with a swivel to prevent the rope from twisting. This kit is sufficient for lifting light loads.

If fixation of the lifted load is necessary, then a jumar or cam clamp can be added to this kit, and a fixing block roller can also be used, which the Americans call a “houler”, and we call a clamp with a block roller.

But remember that, like zhumars, all rollers with needle-type clamps “remove” the braid of modern ropes with a load of just over 400 kgf.

The only exception is, perhaps, “Block-Stop” produced by KROK, Ukraine. The original design does not damage the rope at forces up to 900 kg, and after increasing the load it begins to pickle it.

You need to understand that the effort you put into lifting a load through a block or houler is very dependent on the efficiency of the block. Therefore, to ensure minimum efficiency, it is necessary to use high-quality blocks with bearings. The roller diameter also greatly influences the efficiency. The larger the diameter of the roller in the block, the greater the efficiency.

It is assembled from two or more blocks and has a great variety of varieties. For promalpa, the simplest ones are usually used, consisting of two single, double, triple blocks.

It’s worth stopping here so as not to delve into the technology of the work.

Don't forget that any chain is only as strong as its weakest link!!!

Functional testing descending devices for industrial mountaineering.

Vladislav Eremeev

The tests were prepared and carried out by a public research group. Organizers: M. Shlychkov, T. Akhmedkhanov, A. Rudykh, V. Eremeev.
The testing consisted of volunteers descending on various descending devices from a height of 10-12 m, and after each descent they were asked to evaluate a number of criteria that comprehensively characterize a specific device - for which they filled out a questionnaire.

Ropes used:

Kolomenskaya VSS 24-strand 11 mm static, 2 years of use in industrial mountaineering of moderate intensity.
Tendon 10 mm experimental static, little used in industrial mountaineering for 1 year.
Similar to the first rope - but soaked in water.

Tested devices and compliance with their standards:

RIG Petzl (EN 12841C, EN 341).
INDI EVO Kong (EN 12841C, EN 341).
SPARROW Climbing Technology (EN 12841C, EN 341).
"Bando-STOP" Serafimov, prototype (basic version STOP - EN 341).
Double Stop DSD 30+25 Anthron (EN 12841C, EN 341).
Promalp-BEKUT Orion-Alp, mod. 2012. (VISTI test reports.).
TROLL Pro ALLP Tech SAR (EN 12841C).
EDDI Edelrid = AXEL Camp (prEN15151, EN 12841C, EN 341).
GRI-GRI Petzl (Old).
"Fedya" Krok (Ukraine).

The last 2 are outside of statistical testing.

The tests turned out to be truly independent.
A total of 103 releases were surveyed, with 10 different release devices tested.

11 volunteers took part in the testing. Some of them worked conscientiously, making more than 16 descents; someone came only “for himself” and made only a few descents, without bothering to fill out a form even for them; most skated at least once on each of the main devices tested. The results are of course not without subjectivity, but I think they reflect the real state of affairs. An additional refraction to the evaluation of devices was given by the fact that many volunteers constantly use a number of devices in their practice - and a number of devices were seen and tested by them for the first time.

All volunteers were weighed in their equipment. There is a clear correlation between the weight of the tester and his assessment of a number of device parameters. This suggests that when choosing a descender and how to operate it, the weight of the individual user must be taken into account.
For all descenders, the absolute tension force of the incoming rope branch was instrumentally measured - the tension force was recorded for the start of the descent and for the stable state of the descent.

List of test participants, their experience in industrial mountaineering, weight and descender device usually used by each of them:

Participant	Experience in the industrial park, years	Descender, commonly used	Equipment weight
Wall S.O.	23	GRI-GRI	58 kg
Frolov M.	10	ГD	62 kg
Demidov P.	13	STOP, RIG	67 kg
Razuvaev A.	10	EDDY	74.5 kg
Eremeev V.	16	RIG	80 kg
Pimenov V.	8	RIG	84 kg
Shlychkov M.	24	RIG, triangle	85 kg
Mukhin K.	30 in caving	"Lattice"	90 kg
Akhmedkhanov T.	15	ГD	90 kg
Rudykh A.	24	RIG, triangle	112 kg

Summary table for evaluating descenders for industrial mountaineering during functional tests

For the evaluation, the arithmetic mean of the device evaluation scores indicated by volunteer testers in the questionnaires they filled out was used.
The assessment was made on a 5-point scale, where 5 is the highest positive score. Ratings for the first three points: very significant (1) – significant (2) – satisfactory (3) – comfortable (4) – insignificant (5). For subsequent ones - similar to the school 5-point rating system.

	Devices
Criteria for evaluation	ANTHRON DSD 30+25	EDDY = AXEL	KONG INDY EVO	PETZL RIG	Climbing technology SPARROW	TROLL ProALLP Tech	"BANDO-STOP" Serafimov	Promalp-BERKUT Orion-Alps 2012
Device weight, g:
Declared by the manufacturer	340	360	450	380	520	575		630
Actual	340	360		390	540	600	410	630
Dimensions, mm	190x80	125x70	200x60	175x70	180x85	150x95	270x75	220x90
Rope holding force by hand	4,92	4,08	3,92	4,44	4,6	4,91	4,05	4,5
Rope tension for starting descent/stable descent, for rope 11 mm – 10 mm, measured, kg	5-6,75/ 2,3-3,3	9,83-17,75	18,8-22	9 / 9	3,75-5,17/ 1,5-1,0	5,0-6,5/ 2,3-3,0	6,5-11,5/ 3,5-6,5	13-12/ 6-8
Pressure force on the handle	4,5	4,27	3,08	4,22	4,54	4,0	3,7	3,19
Ease of use with the handle	4,92	3,58	3,79	4,4	4,71	3,32	2,9	3,6
Smooth starting	5,0	3,83	4,0	4,6	4,77	4,55	4,2	4,25
Pulling the rope up	0	4,66	3,37	4,7	4,57	2,6	2,2	4,0
Stability, smoothness, passing along the rope	4,83	4,08	4,08	4,7	4,85	4,7	4,2	4,13
Important Notes	It doesn't go up at all. wear rate is unknown.	Danger: To thread the rope, the device must be completely unfastened!	Excessive pressure on the handle. "Anti-panic" practically does not work.	There are large operation statistics.	Reliability and wear rate during operation are unknown.	Difficult threading of the rope. No usage statistics.	Operated with one hand. Prototype.	Excessive force on the handle. “Plus” - extremely low price. There are large operation statistics.

Conclusions on devices

If it were possible to climb on the Anthron DSD 30+25, it would be the undisputed leader. Having rejected the criterion of “picking the rope up”, for the descent itself, the device remains the most comfortable and safe. However, we do not have data on its wear resistance. Everyone was very interested in the new device from Climbing Technology – SPARROW, which also deserved the highest ratings. To complete the picture, there is not enough statistics of practical operating experience - only on the basis of which it will be possible to judge the reliability of the structure and the degree of its wear resistance.

Perhaps the TROLL Pro ALLP Tech deserved undeservedly low ratings - but the device really requires serious training and education before use; has specific methods for threading the rope and hanging it from the harness. At the same time, it actually has a unique ability - it allows you to adjust the friction force of the friction mechanism for any specific rope so that you can descend regularly without using your hands at all. Unfortunately, the new INDY EVO Kong was disappointing, in which most testers noted excessive pressure on the handle, to the point of painful sensations, aggravated by its angular configuration; and low internal friction when the handle is already released - requiring the rope to be held with considerable force. It may require some very specific ropes or additional training to operate it. But so far I do not understand the fact that it was certified with a load of 200 kg - even if with the weight of 1 person, the rope control effort was one of the highest recorded.

Recently received EN 12841C certification - LORY, aka AXEL, aka EDDY - for all its advantages (the presence of an anti-panic, low weight and dimensions) has a fundamentally dangerous negative feature: to thread a rope into it, it must be completely unfastened from the equipment set. And this is fraught with the possibility of dropping it. Another “disadvantage” of the device is the low internal friction of the friction mechanism - which requires significant effort to hold the rope by hand.

The Russian “Promalp-BEKUT” from the Orion-Alp company confirmed generally good results, and its firm position as a leader in simple and reliable auto-locking devices in the cheap price category. The modified device made it possible to reduce the load on the handle (although it remained significant) and practically avoid free movement of the handle and the device itself with each step on the rise. Long-term positive statistics on the use of several modifications of the device is also a serious “plus” for it.

An experimental prototype of an auto-locking trigger device controlled by one hand, “BANDO-Stop Serafimov,” caused a mixed reaction, largely due to the subjectively new logistics of controlling the device, but overall it earned surprisingly good results.
RIG Petzl showed predictably strong results. Despite the ratings - slightly above average - the device has an additional selection criterion that is different from most others: it has large statistics on use, wear and time between failures. And in general, these statistics are positive. In addition, its weight and dimensions are among the smallest. A characteristic “disadvantage” of the device is that it twists the rope during descent.